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In my less optimistic moments, I am inclined to the view that England is not what it was. At such times I need to go to somewhere which is quintessentially English – a place where there is neither ostentation nor vulgarity, a place which rests in the gentle countryside which is the pride of our nation, ideally an 18th Century mansion of modest size but exquisite proportions. I long to be welcomed with comfortable furnishings, expressive of a refined sensibility, and to receive the sort of hospitality which properly would stir in every departing guest the urge to return. In fact, that for which I yearn on these occasions exists just eight miles from the city of Bath, and it is about this restorative retreat I now write. It is the hotel called Lucknam Park.
Built in 1720 and surrounded by 500 acres of parkland, this Palladian house opened as an hotel in 1987. Since then its 42 rooms have welcomed persons of taste and refinement from all over the place. This is truly where travellers come to find England as it should be. Here is the world of the panelled library and the carefully mown lawn, of the elegant drawing room and the walled garden, of the wing chair and the herbaceous border. It is a world which can offer a game of croquet, a snooze over a pot of tea or a canter on a fine mount (for the hotel has its own Equestrian Centre). Here is a heavenly quietness, which soothes away the stresses of life. Indeed, on my recent visit, I found another healing balm – a sixty minute ‘tension release massage’ (£90) in the magnificent new Spa. It seems there is nothing the good folk of Lucknam Park will not do, to ensure the health and wellbeing of their guests. And presiding over it all is the Chairman, one of the treasures of the British hotel industry, Harry Murray (pictured).
If you look at the photograph of the main façade, you will see the middle three windows on the second floor. These are the windows of my room. Number 26 is designated a ‘Grand Suite’ and is £810 a night for two, breakfast extra. Actually, it has a name: the Cornflower Suite. I reached it via its own staircase from the first floor landing. It turned out to be accommodation of the best kind.
In the proper hallway was a mahogany table, upon which stood two elegant lamps. Doors gave access to the sitting room and the bedroom. In the former was plenty of space for a large sofa and two easy chairs, all with wicker work and in a Japanese style. Plenty of magazines were neatly arranged on the coffee table. I found this chamber of beige and light blue a calm and restful environment for my post-luncheon doze. And I liked the bedroom even more – a light and airy space, with two windows looking straight down the mile-long drive which is flanked with trees of beech and lime. This was exactly what a bedroom should be in a country house hotel. Well-chosen pieces of mahogany furniture in the style of the 18th Century, as well as a second television receiver, a wing chair and a large day-bed, imparted the atmosphere of a private home. On the cd players (again, there were two), I was able to listen to some of the discs which the hotel is happy to supply – including the ‘Best of British’, which included a rousing rendition of ‘Jerusalem’ to lift my patriotic spirits.
Plenty of hanging space was provided by a walk-in wardrobe (within which was a private safe). The Housekeeping Department, at my special request, had made my bed deliciously soft. My ablutions were done under spotlights in the bathroom, which provided me with two basins, a tub of good size, a separate shower and toiletries by Anne Semonin. I was pleased that numerous bottles of spring water from Somerset, called Tufapure, were supplied throughout my stay. Yes, I was really very happy with this billet.
I noticed from my windows that some of my fellow guests were given to exercise. I suppose if one likes running, one might as well do it in such pretty surroundings. But one need not go outside. The hotel’s spa is of considerable size and splendour – although it fits into its verdant surroundings with pleasing discretion and restraint – and provides admirably for those who wish to indulge in physical jerks or to receive treatments. It contains a large swimming pool and a well-equipped gymnasium. Never willingly having stirred my own feeble frame more than Mistress Necessity has dictated, I confined my perambulations to modest walks in the hotel gardens. Here I found stone statues, fragrant flower beds and charming vistas of the tower. This last, despite its antique appearance, dates only from Edwardian times, and was built to house (as it still does) a water tank – as happy a combination of utility and beauty as you are likely to find.
Eating at Lucknam Park is done either in the Brasserie, within the Spa, or in The Park Restaurant, in what used to be the ballroom. In the latter my days began as every Englishman’s day must begin: with a hearty breakfast. The generous sunshine warmed the pink roses around the white casement before it spilled onto the damask tablecloth in front of me, and a gentle breeze wafted through the French windows, as I tucked into smoked haddock and mushrooms, brought to me by the waiter. From the buffet, it became my custom to secure Rice Crispies, slices of melon, fruit salad and croissants. At £22, this breakfast is good value.
At the Brasserie I had a most enjoyable dinner. The Restaurant Manager here is an excellent fellow from Poland. Wojciech Matusiak (pictured) comes from Cracow and displays such boundless enthusiasm for his work that his dining room runs with large measures of both friendliness and efficiency. Its abundance of floor-to-ceiling plate glass makes it feel like part of the surrounding garden. Here the wooden tables are without cloths, and the spotlights shine down from above. Head Chef Richard Synan cooks good ingredients simply and effectively, so that flavours are direct and appealing. A salad of English vine tomatoes, fresh curd cheese and basil, with a lemon dressing, was prettily presented and refreshing to eat. Roast rump of Wiltshire lamb was an excellent piece of tasty, tender meat, accompanied effectively by peas, broad beans and girolle mushrooms. And, best of all, was a really delicious pudding: ginger pannacotta, with poached rhubarb, rhubarb sorbet and candied pistachios. (Allow about £40 for three courses.) The wine list comprises just fifteen whites and fifteen reds, plus champagnes, but the bottles are well chosen. My French sauvignon blanc was grassy and full of tropical fruit (Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascoigne, Pure, 2008 - £25), and my South African cabernet sauvignon was spicy, with hints of cinnamon within its black fruit (Slowine, 2009 - £28).
It was back to the ballroom for my other dinner. The Park Restaurant is the more formal of the two dining rooms. The well-spaced round tables, the crystal chandeliers, the trompe-l’oeil sky on the ceiling and the flickering candles in their silver candlesticks created a setting which was entirely to my liking. I therefore donned my usual attire: suit, starched collar, tie and highly polished shoes. I was happy to observe that most of my fellow diners had made some sartorial effort for the evening. The service – from waiters in black waistcoats and bow ties, orchestrated by the Assistant Restaurant Manager, Airam Hernandez from Tenerife – was properly correct. The napkins of those who left the table for a moment were replaced. The glasses were of good quality – Riedel (the Restaurant range). The armchair, with the help of the cushion brought specially for me, was comfortably supportive.
Executive Chef Hywel Jones (pictured) thoroughly deserves his Michelin star. I found his cuisine to be based upon sound technique, upon respect for the intrinsic taste of ingredients and upon an intelligent approach to the combination of flavours. Mr Hywel is, quite rightly, obsessed with finding the very best suppliers. He also has a proper concern for the appearance of what leaves his kitchen. I have always thought that a great chef must have something of the aesthete about him. I noted on his menu a statement that he is happy to prepare dishes ‘more simply’, if desired. This courteous concern for the wishes of his guests I found admirable.
He offers two set meals: one for £90 and another (vegetarian) for £70. From the carte three courses are £70 and four courses are £80. I opted for the last option. I began with Scottish diver scallops, which had been precisely cooked and combined excellently with pancetta, caper dressing and cauliflower and shellfish purée. There was more careful balance on the next plate, between a rich chicken liver and foie gras parfait and spiced cherries. I always like foie gras and fruit and this version was delightful. Loin of venison brought the anticipated richness, accentuated by spring squash and an oxtail risotto fritter. And the conclusion brought the richness to a crescendo, so luscious was the trio of banana tart, banana mousse and salted caramel ice cream.
The wine list, presided over by Head Sommelier Damien Trinckquel from Orléans, has around 400 offerings, with plenty of half-bottles. Prices range from £22 for an Argentinian sauvignon blanc (Norton) to £1,320 for the 1975 Dom Pérignon. It was good to see 10 German dry whites (£44-£60). Other bottles to catch my eye were: Palmer 1990 (£660), 1985 Cheval Blanc (£840), 2001 Tignanello (£250) and 1996 Dominus (£360). I must certainly recommend to you my red, which was a real snip. This Australian shiraz was a marvellous confection of ripe black cherries, spice and leather, and was truly wonderful drinking for only £25 (Private Selection, Craneford, Barossa, 2006).
I left Lucknam Park full of optimism about Blighty. My pessimism about my homeland had been completely banished. If we can still offer a place like this, there must be a great deal of life left in the old dog yet. Certainly, there was no doubt in my mind about one thing: Lucknam Park is one of the finest country house hotels in England.
Colerne, Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 8AZ, England.
Telephone +44 (0)1225 742777
Fax +44 (0)1225 743536
Email: reservations@lucknampark.co.uk
www.lucknampark.co.uk
Double rooms from £315, breakfast extra.
Ask about special offers.
Minimum stay of two nights at weekends.
