contact: info@bownsbest.com
contact: info@bownsbest.com
Going to Florence, you will want to do two things: go to a restaurant where all your fellow diners are obviously having a wonderful time, and eat the city’s most famous dish. And you might well want to add a third: dinner in Florence’s oldest restaurant. All three can be accomplished in one splendid dining room - the Buca Lapi - over which reigns the most genial of hosts, Luciano Ghinassi (pictured).
Tradition at the Buca Lapi is not a passing interest: it is a way of life. Opened in 1880 in the cellars of the magnificent Palazzo Antinori, the Buca Lapi (‘buca’ means ‘hole’) is famous throughout the world for its Bistecca Fiorentina. Those who love Florence and who love beef – and strange those who, in full possession of their senses, do not do both – come from far and wide to this remarkable gastronomic destination, close to the church of SS Michele & Gaetano, and bring with them the healthiest of appetites. Thus did I present myself for an evening of self-indulgence.
Down a few steep steps at the right hand side of the building, I was within the bovine shrine. The vaults of the cellar have been plastered with posters, some of them quite old. I settled myself comfortably at a table to the left of the stairs. I noted the pleasing contrast between the bright white of the napery and the dense black of the waiters’ aprons.
Of course, I ordered the Bistecca Fiorentina (which is 70€ per person, with vegetables an extra 10€ per portion). But there were other culinary pleasures to be had, too. I omitted the starter (because I knew the enormity of what was coming) and went straight for the pasta course, ribbon pasta with porcini mushrooms. This was a large dish of good, wholesome food. It took an iron discipline not to eat the entire generous portion, but I had to save myself for the main event of the evening.
When the magnificent piece of beef came, it was huge. By the table it was divided. Lesser establishments then perform slicing, but at the Buca Lapi the beef arrived on my plate in the traditional way: as two giant pieces. I cut into the masterpiece. It was, of course, charred without and bloody within. And it was delicious. This, I thought, is why I am a carnivore. I ate. And I ate. And I ate. After a long time of this feasting, it occurred to me that there was still a considerable quantity of lovely meat before me. But, physically, I could not go on. I stopped – replete – but with a tinge of regret that I had to do so. I do not know how I managed any of my pudding, lovely meringues with vanilla ice cream. I suppose my pride kept me going for the last few, tottering steps.
The wine list has lots of wines by the house of Antinori, ranging in price from 24€ for an Antinori Orvieto to 450€ for Antinori’s famous super Tuscan, Solaia. My Tuscan, a blend of merlot and cabernet sauvignon was recommended by Mr Ghinassi and was exactly right for the beef, for its firm structure and depth of fruit stood up to the challenge with the utmost courage (i balzini black label, 2017).
Florence’s most famous dish in Florence’s oldest restaurant, surrounded by happy folk. To eat the Bistecca Fiorentina at the Buca Lapi is a treat. Try it.
Via del Trebbio 1R, 50123 Florence, Italy.
Telephone +39 055 2137 68
Fax +39 055 284 862
Email: bucalapi@gmail.com
Open for dinner only
Closed on Sundays