Bown's Best - Campton Place Restaurant, San Francisco, California, US

CALIFORNIA

SAN FRANCISCO

CAMPTON PLACE RESTAURANT

Campton Place Restaurant, San Francisco, California, US San Francisco crackles with culinary energy and gastronomic excitement. This one of the many reasons why it is my favourite city in the United States. The enthusiasm of its chefs is infectious, and is as fresh as the produce they take into their kitchens. I am not talking here of the pursuit of novelty for her own sake, which is a tiresome trait afflicting too many aspects of the modern world. Rather, I refer to the creativity of talented folk who have put in the time and effort to develop real skill. The result is a collection of fine restaurants. The best of them bear comparison with the finest dining rooms in the world. And near the top of San Francisco’s premier league is Campton Place.

Campton Place Restaurant, San Francisco, California, US Close to Union Square, within a luxurious hotel of the same name, Campton Place has tempted me in several times over the last few years. I like the cool sophistication of its décor – the discreet lighting, the gentle tones of grey and the enormous focal point, a glass sculpture of giant red and white flower petals. I admire, too, the professionalism of the waiters and waitresses, in their black suits. Calm and assured, they contribute much to the relaxed and friendly atmosphere. My meals here have all been impressive, but I had heard that – for the first time – a Californian was in charge of the stoves. I was eager to see how he was getting on.

Chef Peter Rudolph, Campton Place Restaurant, San Francisco, California, US Chef Peter Rudolph (pictured) has the looks and easy charm of a young surfer. In the kitchen, however, I suspect that he is an iron disciplinarian – for nothing but iron discipline could have produced the wonderful dishes which were set on the white tablecloth in front of me. He clearly has a well-tuned and subtle palate, for he combines flavours and textures with the surest of hands. And, not the least of his skills, he has a painterly eye. His plates are exquisite to behold.

I began with a tomato and mackerel terrine, with Szechuan pepper and basil. Simple in conception, careful in execution and delicate of flavour, this was exactly the refreshing start to my meal I wanted. More robust tastes came with a fricassé of quail, with onions, grapes and mustard, yet there was still a lovely harmony and balance to the whole. Then, one of the finest pieces of meat to enter my mouth for a long time – Cubibura Farm lamb, not only tender and flavoursome, but also possessing some absolutely gorgeous fat. (Mr Rudolph clearly realizes what too many chefs have forgotten – that a little fat, if it is of the right quality, sets off its meat to perfection.) This came with pistachio nuts and coffee-scented celery root. My final course was a master class in exceptional pastry and the wonders of lightness – white coffee tart with bitter citrus purée and cocoa ice cream.

A 7 course tasting menu is available for $95, with wine pairing an extra $59. The alternative, which I took, is to have 3 or 4 courses from the carte for $65 or $75. My lamb attracted a supplement of $10, so the total for my 4 courses was $85 – which, considering the quality of everything I ate (including some exceptionally good crusty bread), was a bargain.

And, as if all this were not enough joy for one evening, whom should I meet over the wine list, but the wonderful and wonderfully elegant Shana Dilworth? I last met this splendid and knowledgeable lady when she was in charge of the wine at a restaurant near the San Francisco Opera. Now she is the sommelière here, and presides over one of the most prestigious cellars in the city. Its one thousand offerings from the New and Old Words include 75 rieslings and 150 red burgundies. Among the latter is the 1998 DRC Richebourg for $990. If you have a taste for older clarets from the best vintages, I spied this trio of lovelies for you: 1970 Lafite ($655), 1975 Palmer ($405) and 1985 Latour ($849).

Campton Place Restaurant, San Francisco, California, US

I was happy to go with Miss Dilworth’s recommendations. In the event, I was not happy – I was overjoyed. Both were brilliant. First was a German riesling from the wonderful Hermann Dönnhoff – superby balanced and supremely elegant, with just 8•5% alcohol, and with a nose of petrol which grew and grew in the Riedel glass (Norheimer Kirschbeck, Spätlese, 2002 - $79). Next was a classic example of red burgundy, a Gevrey-Chambertin with a stunning lavatorial nose and a yielding fullness of ripe plums (Philippe Naddef, Les Cazetiers, Vieilles Vignes, Premier Cru, 1999 - $102).

After dinner I walked the few steps to Union Square to look at the lights. But, in reality, the real lights were behind me – shining in the kitchen and in the cellar which had just given me such an enjoyable evening. Campton Place is, without doubt, one of the brightest stars in the gastronomic constellation of San Francisco.

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