Bown's Best - Grand Canal Restaurant, Venice, Italy

VENICE

GRAND CANAL RESTAURANT

Grand Canal Restaurant, Venice, Italy The first time I went to Venice I could scarcely believe my eyes. A boat, organized by the travel company, had met me at the airport. In order to deposit its passengers at their various hotels, it speeded over to the city and then sailed slowly down the Grand Canal. Nothing I had seen hitherto had prepared me for this feast of beauty. Indeed, I do not think that, before that moment, I had believed that humankind was capable of producing so perfect a panorama. That was nearly forty years ago. I have returned to Venice many times, but always I am thrilled by the sight of the world’s most enchanting waterway. So where better for dinner than the Grand Canal Restaurant?

This dining room is within the excellent Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal (see separate article). It is on the ground floor, just a few inches higher than the famous waters. And, of course, it is surrounded by visual splendour.

I took my table on the terrace and looked straight ahead. There, in the distance, was the island of Guidecca, home to one of Palladio’s most famous churches, the Redentore. Slightly to the right, jutting out into the gentle black waves, was the Customs House – a prosaic title for so splendid a Classical structure. Then, to the right, was the glory of this part of Venice, the church of Santa Maria della Salute – the swirling, triumphant masterpiece of Longhena, white against the darkening sky. To eat any meal with this view would have been a pleasure: to eat a meal as good as the one I enjoyed was a privilege.

Grand Canal Restaurant, Venice, Italy With its gentle formality, good cooking and remarkable location, it is no surprise that the Grand Canal Restaurant is very popular. It was full on the evening on which I dined there, and I noticed that a number of people had to be turned away. I recommend therefore that you book in advance. Its waiters, in black tie, certainly work hard to keep the diners happy. And they succeed. As I sat before a tablecloth of beige, I noticed the pots of red geraniums which separated the terrace from the Canal. I felt all was well.

I found the service, orchestrated by maitre d’ Guido Patruno, friendly and efficient. The waiting staff seemed proud of the food they were bringing from the kitchen. And they should have been, for Chef Sandro Traini offers an attractive menu of straightforward Italian dishes and cooks them with considerable skill.

Fresh salmon, marinated with dill, was of good quality and served in a healthy portion. Tagliolini with langoustines was flavoursome and full of yielding textures. Pink rack of lamb was properly tender and spoke volumes about the chef’s ability to secure top class ingredients. A really good zabaglione, washed down with a glass of bubbly, ended this thoroughly satisfying repast. (Allow around 75 euros for four courses.)

Grand Canal Restaurant, Venice, Italy The wine list is not massive (wine lists in Venice seldom are, perhaps because of the absence of cellars), but it has some tempting offerings. 1999 Cristal champagne is 225 euros. If you are desperate for claret, 1996 Figeac (240 euros) is a good bet, and if you long to sip the grandest sauternes with your pudding, a half bottle of 1996 Yquem is 250 euros. Most of the bottles are, of course, Italian. Gaja’s 1998 Barbaresco is 385 euros, and there are some of the lovely super Tuscans: 2001 Ornellaia is 292 euros and 2000 Tignanello is 146 euros.

For my own drinking, I relied on the advice of the 2 nd maitre d’ Domenico Melazzi, and drank well. A local white was full-bodied, well-balanced, with neutral fruit and (after it had been in the glass a few moments) some toastiness (Tocai, Zamò, 2004 – 34 euros), and a fine cabernet from Padua provided a massive explosion of ripe blackcurrants in my mouth (Ireneo, Conte Capodilista, 2001 – 46 euros). Well done, Signor Melazzi.

After dinner, I walked the few yards to St Mark’s Square and there enjoyed a late coffee at Florian. The orchestra played, the floodlit façade of St Mark’s Basilica shimmered, and I thought again the thought I had had forty years before. Earth has nowhere more fair than the city of Venice.

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