Bown's Best - Grand Canal Restaurant, Venice, Italy

VENICE

GRAND CANAL RESTAURANT

Grand Canal Restaurant, Venice, Italy They say it is difficult to eat well in Venice. There is some truth to this. Human nature being what it is, a wonderful location does not always mean an abundance of wonderful dining rooms – far from it. Certainly, you can find plenty of Venetian restaurateurs who believe that they do not need to make much effort with their food, as if being able to eat at all in the most beautiful city in the world should be quite enough to satisfy their patrons. This means that you should take extra care in the selection of a venue for dinner. But I am here to help; and help I can. For I can direct you to a place, only a few steps from St Mark’s Square, which offers excellent cuisine, a decent wine list, courteous and attentive service and some of the finest views in the city. It is the Grand Canal Restaurant.

I have had the pleasure of dining at this establishment on several occasions, so I know that its high culinary standards are absolutely reliable. It is located inside the Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal (see separate article), a collection of buildings which once housed Venice’s first Pubblico Ridotto. Within these gaming rooms, Giacomo Casanova is said to have pursued some of the ladies who were destined to be added to the tally of his conquests. The hotel’s recent restoration has revealed the grandeur of such elegant chambers, as well as creating some stylish public spaces in a modern idiom. I like to take the longer route to the restaurant, so that I can stride through the latter on my way. As you know, exercise stimulates the appetite.

On my most recent visit, I was greeted at the door by the 1st Maitre d’, Guido Patruno. Signor Patruno sets the tone of his restaurant. And a good tone it is: smart, friendly and efficient. I noticed the efficiency soon after my arrival, when a nearby table for ten was, almost magically, transformed into a table for five within a few seconds. The speed and unobtrusiveness of this operation were remarkable.

The weather was cold, so it was not possible to sit on the outside terrace. This meant that I missed being able to gaze across the dark waters of the Grand Canal at the floodlit domes and buttresses of the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute. But the room to which I was led was coolly elegant, the silver candlestick on my yellow tablecloth held an orange candle and the waiters were smart in black tie, so I felt no sense of deprivation. Soon I was sipping a Bellini and noting, with approval, that the napkins of those who left the table for a moment were whisked away and replaced. This is a small courtesy, but it is an important one. All restaurants should offer it. Too many do not. I have mentioned the overall excellence of the service already. I was looked after by maitre d’ Patrizia Stoppa. His expertise and charm were of the highest order.

Chef Sandro Traini takes ingredients of high quality, cooks them carefully and precisely and presents his dishes in a manner which is pleasing to the eye. The result on this occasion was an honest, straightforward and thoroughly enjoyable dinner. I began with fried scallops and celeriac purée. Here was precision (in the perfectly cooked scallops) and here was intelligence (in the charming sweetness of both ingredients). Next came soft raviolini (small ravioli), with capon and cheese, topped with slices of black truffle. It sounds delicious now, and it was delicious then. For my main course, I had – by special request – fillet of beef, with fried onions and Béarnaise sauce. This was a lovely piece of meat, pink and tender, set off well by its companions. By now somewhat replete, I concluded with some bright and refreshing sorbets – of banana and rhubarb. (Allow 90-100 euros for four courses.)

Grand Canal Restaurant, Venice, Italy Most of the offerings on the wine list are, of course, from Italy, with prices starting at 27 euros. But interesting bottles have been gathered from other places, too. From the Lebanon there is 1997 Chateau Musar (100 euros) and from France I noticed an Alsatian Riesling (Hugel, 2003 – 56 euros), 1996 Yquem (265 euros, half) and Krug Grande Cuvée (273 euros). Super-Tuscans include 2000 Solaia (300 euros), 2003 Tignanello (160 euros) and 2003 Ornellaia (190 euros).

For my own drinking, I relied on the knowledge of Signor Stoppa. He directed me to a local sauvignon blanc, which was grassy and elegant (Jermann, 2006 – 42 euros), and to a superb Tuscan red. This blend of cabernet and merlot was made by Ornellaia, and yielded a gorgeous density of black fruit and much residual sweetness in its lingering aftertaste (Le Serre Nuove, 2003 – 69 euros).

So, you see, it is possible to eat well in Venice – as long as you choose your gastronomic destination with care. That is why you should take a note of the Grand Canal Restaurant.

ADDRESSES