Bown's Best - Grand Canal Restaurant, Venice, Italy

VENICE

GRAND CANAL RESTAURANT

Grand Canal Restaurant, Venice, Italy Here is what you should do to partake of one of life’s pleasanter experiences. Have a leisurely Bellini, sitting at an outside table at the Café Florian. (We are, of course, in St Mark’s Square, in the heart of the most beautiful city in the world, Venice.) Then stroll up the piazza, away from the Basilica, and go through the colonnades, past the entrance to the Museo Correr. Take the second turning on the left and walk down the narrow calle Vallaresso towards the Grand Canal. You will now be outside the main entrance of one of the most prestigious hostelries in the city, The Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal (see separate article). Enter and have a thoroughly good dinner at the Grand Canal Restaurant, while gazing over the water at the church of Santa Maria della Salute. If, when you finally emerge, you have not enjoyed yourself, I will be mightily surprised. Nay, I shall be astonished.

Grand Canal Restaurant, Venice, Italy Casanova used to come to this building. In those days it was Venice’s first Pubblico Ridotto (casino) and the eager Giacomo doubtless enjoyed both the gambling and the opportunity to pursue the ladies. If you ascend the grand staircase to the right of the entrance corridor, you can see the chamber – which is of remarkable splendour and elegance – in which these reprehensible activities took place. It is well worth a peep. But the dining room is reached by going to the left and by staying on the ground floor. Thus did I reach my destination, to be greeted by the excellent 1st Maître d’hôtel, Guido Patruno. He took me to a round table in one of the collection of small rooms. (In the warmer months diners are keen to sit on the outside terrace, but on my visit there was a distinct chill in the air.) I eased myself into the beige fauteuil. Before me was a yellow tablecloth, on which stood glassware by Bormioli and an orange, barley twist candle in a silver candlestick. Overhead were spotlights. As maître d’ Domenico Melazzi – smart in black tie – brought me the menu, the realization came upon me that there was no canned music. For this civilized (and unusual) absence, I gave thanks.

Grand Canal Restaurant, Venice, Italy The food which comes from the kitchen of Chef Sandro Traini is based on sound technique and ingredients of high quality. It is also traditional. In Venice, this is as it must be. (Some years ago I went to an exhibition of early photographs of the city. There I learnt, not to my surprise, that the place has scarcely changed its appearance at all over the past hundred years. But why should it? Perfection cannot not improved by alteration.)

I began with foie gras terrine with pumpkin sauce. Here was the proper taste of the duck liver, not obscured by a sauce which was very delicate indeed. Then came a dish for a real trencherman. In fact, this bowl of bean and pasta sauce (and you can’t get much more traditional than that) could probably have sustained two or three beefy gentlemen out on a day’s winter shoot. It was, as they say, filling – and I did not do it proper justice. Still, I was glad I had left room for the rack of lamb with garden vegetables, for this meat – from Ireland – was seriously tasty. I liked the accompanying potato rösti and cauliflower and carrot purée, too. At my special request, for this is a friendly and accommodating kitchen, I ended with a Grand Marnier soufflé, with vanilla ice cream – or, rather, I ended with several Grand Marnier soufflés, such was the chef’s kindness. And very good they were. (Allow 80ε for four courses.)

Grand Canal Restaurant, Venice, Italy The wine list has 120 offerings, and helpfully notes the grapes used in the production of each wine. Prices range from 27ε for a red or white from the Veneto to 468ε for 2001 Mouton Rothschild. For claret lovers with slightly shallower pockets, there is 1996 Figeac for 255ε. Krug Grande Cuvée champagne is 289ε and, with your pudding, there is 1996 Yquem for 265ε, half. Super Tuscans include 2000 Solaia (300ε), 2003 Ornellaia (200ε), 2003 Tignanello (165ε) and 2004 Sassicaia(310ε).

For my white, I stayed in the local area for a 2006 Tokai (Zamò - 39ε), which yielded notes of grass and melon, but was really quite austere. The red from Tuscany – a blend of cabernet, merlot and syrah – was altogether more expansive, with lots of ripe black cherries (Il Bruciato, Guardo Al Tasso, 2006 - 40ε).

After this exceedingly pleasant experience, I walked back to St Mark’s Square and looked upon the west front of the basilica. It was impossible not to think, as I do on every visit to La Serenissma, that those who have not been to Venice have not truly lived.

Grand Canal Restaurant, Venice, Italy

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