ITALY

VENICE

GRAND CANAL RESTAURANT

Grand Canal Restaurant, Venice, Italy The first time I went to Venice I could scarcely believe my eyes. A boat, organized by the travel company, had met me at the airport. In order to deposit its passengers at their various hotels, it speeded over to the city and then sailed slowly down the Grand Canal. Nothing I had seen hitherto had prepared me for this feast of beauty. Indeed, I do not think that, before that moment, I had believed that humankind was capable of producing so perfect a panorama. That was over forty years ago. I have returned to Venice many times since then, but always I am thrilled by the sight of the world’s most enchanting waterway. And I am also thrilled by the prospect of a meal at one of the city’s most pleasing restaurants. After all, for we lovers of the Grand Canal, where better could there be for dinner than the Grand Canal Restaurant?

This dining room is within the excellent Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal (see separate article). It is on the ground floor, just a few inches higher than the famous waters (but now – after the hotel’s extensive renovations – protected from their unwelcome ingress). And, of course, it is surrounded by visual splendour.

Grand Canal Restaurant, Venice, Italy I was greeted, as usual, by the splendid Mr Guido Patruno, the 1st maitre d’. Then I was taken to my table in one of the several small rooms by maitre d’ Patrizio Stoppa. Mr Stoppa looked after me throughout the evening, and did so with exemplary charm and efficiency. I settled back into the fauteuil (made comfortable for my ailing back by an extra cushion), surveyed the yellow tablecloth, on which the flame of the orange candle was caught in the crystal of the Schott glassware, admired the soft reflection of the overhead spotlights on the silk-covered walls, and a smile settled upon my face. Behind me, through the window, was the glory of this part of Venice, the church of Santa Maria della Salute – the swirling, triumphant masterpiece of Longhena, white against the darkening sky. Truly, there is nowhere like Venice.

With its gentle formality, good cooking and remarkable location, it is no surprise that the Grand Canal Restaurant is very popular. You should therefore book in advance. Its waiters, in black tie, certainly work hard to keep the diners happy. Certainly, I found the service entirely to my liking. The waiters always seem proud of the food they bring from the kitchen. And they should be, for Chef Sandro Traini offers a most attractive menu. This is a place for those – and I am among their number – who like straightforward Italian dishes cooked with real skill.

Grand Canal Restaurant, Venice, Italy I began with sautéed langoustines with pumkin purée, perfumed with rosemary. This was a well-balanced dish, prettily presented on a white plate. For my pasta, I had a large raviolo, filled with vegetables and served in a broth of red prawns, a combination which was deeply satisfying. And then came the star of the production. The rack of lamb was carved by the table, and was a truly superb piece of meat, packed full of luscious flavour. There were bones to deal with, and I had no intention of letting any of this meat go uneaten, so a finger bowl was brought – so that I could tuck in like a true trencherman, the while cleaning my lamb-stained digits. I concluded with the puddings of the day from the trolley – zabaglione, chocolate cake and tarte tatin. I confess that I did not do justice to this fine trio. Each was very good, and it was sad to leave even a morsel of such ravishing beauties, but, alas! I was full. (These four courses were 87 euros.)

The wine list has around 120 offerings. It has some tempting offerings. Most of the bottles are, of course, Italian. There are some lovely super Tuscans: 2005 Ornellaia is 200 euros, 2004 Sassicaia is 310 euros and 2002 Solaia is 300 euros.

For my own drinking, I relied on the advice of the Mr Stoppa, and drank well. A white from the Trentino was light, elegant and perfumed (Chardonnay di Faedo, Sandri, 2009 - 34€). And the red was delicious. This was a Valpolicella, but a Valpolicella ripasso – and therefore, having been passed through the same barrels, it was drenched with the flavours of its grand cousin, Amarone, and burst forth with ripe black fruit (Valpolicella Vigneto La Cengia Ripasso, Begali, 2008). This was beautiful drinking for just 38 euros.

After dinner, I walked the few yards to St Mark’s Square and looked about me. The floodlit façade of St Mark’s Basilica shimmered, and I thought again the thought I had had more than forty years before. Earth hath nowhere to show more fair than the city of Venice.

Grand Canal Restaurant, Venice, Italy

ITALY

VENICE

GRAND CANAL RESTAURANT

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GRAND CANAL RESTAURANT