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There is one word which sums up the lovely Grand Hotel Miramare: pristine. Everything about this noble pile speaks of owners who are so proud of their establishment that they will not allow the tiniest imperfection to linger without or within. Those owners are the Fustinoni family, and it is Andrea Fustinoni who is the hotel’s Managing Director. His great passion is contemporary art, and guests can admire examples in the resident collection and in the temporary exhibitions which grace the halls and salons of the Miramare (search for Miramart on the internet).
The Miramare was opened in 1903 in the heart of what we call the Italian Riviera. If you do not already know Santa Margherita Ligure, you are in for a treat. It is a town of charm and elegance, and to the Grand Hotel Miramare have come some famous folk who were charming and elegant themselves. In 1947 Laurence Olivier and Vivien Leigh stayed while on honeymoon, and a few years earlier, in 1933, the hotel had even claimed its place in the history of communications, when the great Marconi first transmitted telegraphic radio and telephonic radio signals a distance of 150 kilometres from the hotel terrace.
Now the building’s façade has been beautifully restored, complete with its trompe l’oeil frescoes. The hotel’s exquisite and immaculately tended gardens run up the hill at the back of the property. A delightful view of them blessed my air-conditioned room, number 209, a ‘Double Garden View with Balcony’. This was a blissfully quiet chamber. (You should be aware that the road at the front of the building can be busy at certain times of the day.) I liked its crystal chandelier, parquet floor and striped wallpaper and, although it was not large, its careful arrangement (with fitted wardrobes and a wall-mounted television) made it feel quite spacious. Spotlights in the bathroom shone down on walls of grey-veined marble, a bath with a shower over, a bidet, a loo, one wash basin and an abundance of large white towels. It was most pleasant to sit on my private balcony and listen to the song of the birds happy to have found such comfortable surroundings.
Breakfast was on the terrace of the hotel’s Vistamare Restaurant - a dining room well named, for its views of the sea and the Ligurian coast are enchanting. With the sun glinting on the distant waves, and its rays kept safely behind the overhead shade, I found I could think of few more delightful places for tucking into the day’s most important meal. And tuck in I did, because the fare on the breakfast buffet was first class: slices of coconut cake, bowls of prosciutto and melon, dishes of pineapple and kiwi, plates of bacon, sausages and mushrooms, slices of crusty bread, pots of marmalade - all tip-top. And best of all were the croissants specially warmed for me, washed down with pots of proper coffee brought by the helpful waiters.
I returned to the Vistamare for dinner. Now the tinkling of the piano drifted over from the bar as I gazed over the waters to the lights of Sestri Levante and the other little towns across the bay. The waiters were in black tie, the napery was stiff and white and the Spiegelau glasses gleamed. The stage was set for sampling the cuisine of Chef Claudio Fortuna. I began with duck foie gras, presented in so many forms I quite lost count. But I do remember the most impressive: a luscious crème brûlée with the liver at its tastiest. Then a fine piece of beef fillet was tender and tasty. Finally, there came a light confection of strawberries and raspberries - again in different forms. (You should allow 80€-90€ for three such courses.)
The wine list has 125 mostly Italian offerings, with prices running from 60€ for a Sicilian white to 1,400€ for the 2014 or 2017 Masseto. An interesting horizontal tasting of Super Tuscans from the 2018 vintage could be had, with Sassicaia (605€), Ornellaia (680€), Solaia (745€) and Tignanello (305€). Other bottles to catch my eye were: 2013 Cristal champagne (575€), 2020 Cervaro della Sala (165€) and 2016 Gaja Barbaresco (528€). Maitre d’ Manuele Berardi (pictured with your correspondent and 2nd Chef Andrea Nanna) also acts as the sommelier. The half-bottle he recommended for the foie gras was an elegant and delicious sweet wine from Umbria - Muffato della Sala, Antinori, 2018 (105€).
The Grand Hotel Miramare is a charming, well-run hotel by the sea. I enjoyed my stay. I like everything to be pristine.
16038 Santa Margherita Ligure, Italy.
Telephone +39 0185 287013
Fax +39 0185 284651
Email: miramare@grandhotelmiramare.it
Double rooms from 340 euros, according to season, including breakfast
Ask about rates for specific dates and about special offers