ITALY
NAPLES
GRAND HOTEL PARKER'S & GEORGE RESTAURANT

Grand Hotel Parker's & George Restaurant, Naples, Italy | Bown's Best

Marine biologists, for obvious reasons, have always liked Naples. But one of them – an Englishman – liked it so much that he gave his name to the city’s sweetest hotel, the Grand Hotel Parker’s. And the hotel is not only sweet: it contains one of Italy’s finest restaurants, given the gentleman’s Christian name.

Early one morning in 1889 George Parker Bidder was asleep in bed when the local bailiff arrived at his favourite billet to confiscate it because of the owner’s gambling debts. Woken by the commotion, Mr Bidder enquired through his door as to what was going on. Told by the distraught hotelier that his beloved establishment was now for sale, Mr Bidder – with that combination of languor and extreme wealth for which the Englishman Abroad was once famous – called out, “Put the hotel on my bill,” and went back to his slumbers. Thus did an expert on the life of the sponge ensure that the name above the door would be not The Grand Hotel, but The Grand Hotel Parker’s. 

Head Concierge, Domenico Candela with Francis Bown, Grand Hotel Parker's & George Restaurant, Naples, Italy | Bown's Best

With hotels, I find first impressions important. Here they are excellent. The steep road outside (for we are near the top of the hill) is busy – but, then, every road in this frenetic city is busy. There is therefore a lovely contrast when – in through the attractive Liberty façade – all is quiet, calm and supremely elegant. I was met by the hotel’s Chief Experience Officer, Mr Giovanni Torre Avallone, a most charming host, clearly very proud of the gilt, marble, paintings, statues, fine fabrics and antique furniture which combine to give Parker’s its sense of stylish luxury. Also present was the Head Concierge, Marco Giuliano. As you can judge from the photograph of myself with Mr Giuliano, he is a fellow to give one an expansive welcome.

Parker’s is not a large hotel – there are just 67 bedrooms and suites – but it has an impressive sense of grand space. Much of the décor is in the French period style. This I like, and I expect former guests liked it, too. They have included Oscar Wilde, George Bernard Shaw and …Lenin. Clearly, the hotel’s appeal has always been wide.

Up on the second floor, I admired the pristine decor of the corridor. Corridors are good indicators of the quality of the rooms to which they lead. Number 206 was a Junior Suite (consult the hotel website for the rates for specific dates) and was smart: wood block floors, spotlights, curtains of black silk, a gilt chandelier and mahogany furniture. A proper hallway led into my sitting room with a round dining table and four chairs, and then sliding doors opened into my bedroom, with a supremely comfortable bed and a view from its balcony of the entire Bay of Naples. My bathroom was clad with dark grey marble and offered a huge bath, one wash basin, a walk-in shower, a loo, a bidet and plenty of Floris toiletries. 

Grand Hotel Parker's & George Restaurant, Naples, Italy | Bown's Best
Grand Hotel Parker's & George Restaurant, Naples, Italy | Bown's Best


Grand Hotel Parker's & George Restaurant, Naples, Italy | Bown's Best

Each day, after a substantial breakfast on the 6th floor (looked after by Alessandro and his regiment of friendly waitresses - warm croissants, lots of fruit, Allbran and banana, mushrooms on toast, omelettes and coffee - I sallied forth to enjoy once more the beauty of Naples, the city’s haphazard taxis notwithstanding. Of the many delights I encountered, I will detail just one: the Galleria d’Italia in the via Toledo. I went not to see the dark and dreary Caravaggio, but to marvel at the building. It is a masterpiece of Rationalist architecture, built in 1939 for the Banco di Napoli. Designed by Marcello Piacentini, it is impressive within and without.

After a day of sights, it was back to Parker’s for dinner. And what a dinner! The restaurant on the 6th floor takes Mr Parker’s Christian name: George. It has two Michelin stars, and it deserves them for food and service which are exceptional. Domenico Candela (pictured) is a chef of intelligence and rare ability. His cuisine ranges from the sublimely simple - spaghettone with seven varieties of local tomatoes - to the brilliant and wondrously subtle - langoustine with carrots, eucalyptus gel and vegetable sauce flavoured with curcuma. And each dish is as delightful to the eye as it is satisfying to the palate.  

Chef Domenico Candela, Grand Hotel Parker's & George Restaurant, Naples, Italy | Bown's Best

Three tasting menus are offered, at 150€, 160€ and 180€. One dish from the carte is 70€, two are 90€ and three are 135€. Waiters - like the excellent Stefano, who looked after me - wear black tie. The service is properly formal, with napkins replaced for those who leave the table for a moment. The glassware is by Zalto. Through the windows the whole of Naples far below provides a twinkling backdrop to the performance of gastronomic magic.

Apart from the dishes I have mentioned, I also tucked into tender and tasty lamb with smoked sardines and pepper sauce and an apple tarte tatin which appeared different from any previously set before me and yet, with its crème brûlée and vanilla ice cream, was the best I have ever eaten.

A dining room of this prestige and quality deserves a fine cellar. And it has one. I counted 505 offerings from Italy and France on its list, running in price from 45€ for a Greco di Tufo to 4,800€ for the 2008 vintage of that grandest of champagnes, Krug Clos du Mesnil. Other bottles to catch my eye included 2020 Gaja & Rey chardonnay (330€), 2021 Cervaro della Sala (130€), 2019 Solaia (450€), 2019 Sassicaia (450€), 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet, Bouchard Père & Fils (795€), 2017 Château Palmer (205€) and 2009 Château d’Yquem (2,000€). My own drinking included a delicious local red of soft tannins, pleasing complexity and spicy black fruit (Taurasi, Vigne d’Alto, Cantine Lonardo, 2011).

I am so glad Mr Bidder bought this hotel and gave his name to it. The Grand Hotel Parker’s is a bright diamond in the crown of Naples. Its comfort, service and famous restaurant are all to be applauded. And its association with the marine biologist from England makes it even better. 

Grand Hotel Parker's & George Restaurant, Naples, Italy | Bown's Best
Grand Hotel Parker's & George Restaurant, Naples, Italy | Bown's Best
Chef Domenico Candela with Francis Bown, Grand Hotel Parker's & George Restaurant, Naples, Italy | Bown's Best

ADDRESS

GRAND HOTEL PARKER'S

Corso Vittorio Emanuele 135, 80121 Naples, Italy.
Telephone +39 081 761 2474
Fax +39 081 663 527
Email: info@grandhotelparkers.it

GEORGE RESTAURANT
Open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday
Email: info@georgerestaurant.it 

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