contact: info@bownsbest.com
contact: info@bownsbest.com
A few hotels in the world are so good that their guests return year after year and begin to constitute a community of enthusiasts. The Caesar Augustus is such an hotel. Its motto is ‘Never settle for less than your dreams’. These words raise expectations - and the Caesar Augustus fulfills them. First, it is literally sky-high, clinging to the top of the cliffs and enjoying the very finest view Capri has to offer. And second, it is run in a most pleasing and civilised manner by Paolo and Francesco Signorini, father and son. The picture shows your correspondent between these two fine gentlemen.
We are on the terrace of the hotel. Here, in the early evening, you can sip champagne and down some decent caviar as you gaze at the setting of the sun over one of earth’s most magical panoramas. You will know then that life is good. No wonder, then, that many of the world’s most sophisticated persons come here, and consistently mention the Caesar Augustus when asked by the travel magazines which hotels they find most pleasing. The Signorini Family is rightly proud of the many accolades awarded by such publications, which reflect the enthusiasm of their guests.
Given the magnificent location of the Caesar Augustus, it comes as no surprise to learn that, in the 1950s, a king came here to cheer himself up. This was King Farouk of Egypt. I know nothing of Egyptian politics, but I do know that Mr Nasser obliged the great King to leave his kingdom – and, like any sensible king in such circumstances, he headed for Capri. His apartment is now called The Farouk Suite, and you can stay there in kingly splendour.
My own room was number 204, a delightful Junior Suite with Sea View. (Check the hotel website for the rates for specific dates.) One of the things I like about the Caesar Augustus is that everything is not only pristine, but also of the highest quality. And so it was in my billet. The colour scheme of white and pale grey, with terra cotta tiles on the floor, was ideal for the warm summer months – as was the effective, controllable air conditioning. The bed-sitting room was of a good size and, being at the corner of the building, possessed not one, but two balconies with chairs and tables. The slope-fronted bureau was in the antique style, my bed was comfortable, the wall lights and gilt-wood table lamps were pretty and the walk-in wardrobe provided sufficient hanging space, even for me. In the bathroom, the toiletries were by Erbario of Tuscany. I found that they, too, were tip-top, and made my use of the large corner bath and the two wash basins particularly pleasurable. Through the window was, once more, the view which is the chief blessing of the hotel’s privileged position.
King Ferouk loved this location. And so do I. But others adored it long before we were thought of. On this particular cliff-top have been found traces of buildings dating back to the 9th century, and there is no doubt that it was regarded as a special plot even before then – given the fondness for Capri shown by the rulers of the Roman Empire. Then, in the 1850s, a wealthy German built the Villa Bitter here. This was purchased in the 1900s by Prince Emmanuel Bullak of Russia. He it was who installed the life-size statue of Caesar Augustus, which still points out to the sea. To stand next to this monument and look down to the Marina Grande, a thousand feet below, makes you feel special. In the 1930s the villa was purchased by the current owners, the Signorini family from Naples.
Without question, the Caesar Augustus is now regarded as one of the most stylish and comfortable of Italy’s small hotels. The public areas and the gorgeous terraced gardens (lit with hundreds of candles when darkness falls) ooze sophistication and charm. And there is humour, too. For the first half of the day some members of the waiting staff dress in striped blouses and red bandanas, an outfit which I found reminiscent of those productions of The Pirates of Penzance to which Auntie Maud took me as a boy. And nothing pleases me more than being reminded of Gilbert and Sullivan.
When guests arrive on the island at the Marina Grande, they are met by the hotel’s smart people-carrier. This whisks them up, past Capri town. Then, just at the approach to Anacapri, the driver turns right, into the grounds of the Caesar Augustus. Moments later they are inside. On my own arrival, before going to my room, I could not resist walking through to the huge terrace at the back of the hotel. I knew, of course, (from previous visits) that the panorama would be wonderful, but I was still obliged to catch my breath. The island of Ischia, the distant mainland, the absurdly blue water, the clarity of vision so charmingly distorted by the heat… Before me was the beauty of serenity and harmony.
Each morning, to break my fast, I went to the dining room, and sat opposite an open French window, so that I could enjoy the cooling sea breeze. Here I was looked after very well by Maitre d’ Gaetano de Maio (pictured with me) and by Martina – as well as by members of their staff in pirate uniforms. Indeed, I breakfasted at the Caesar Augustus in a manner both comfortable and leisurely. Buckets of ice cubes and gorgeous mint tea made with leaves from the garden - as well as my concluding cappuccino - were brought to me. Other comestibles I secured from the buffet. These included crusty bread, marmalade (made from local oranges), prosciutto, melon, pineapple, strawberries, bacon, scrambled egg, super tomatoes and croissants warmed for me. I did not go hungry.
In the evenings, when the weather is kind, meals are served in the rustic, semi-outdoors restaurant. But there was a new room since my last visit. Called la Terrazza di Lucullo, this glass-walled space perches on the cliff’s edge. It gave me the impression of floating high above the waters, with the Bay of Naples way down below. Enchanting. Here I tucked into the excellent food which came from the kitchen. Chef
Eduardo Vuolo calls the fruit of his labours “Zero Kilometre Cuisine”, because so much of it comes straight from the hotel’s own gardens. My dinner began with lobster, glazed with mint and served with vegetables and burrata cheese - tender, tasty and well-balanced. My roasted lamb had similar qualities and my pudding was a most pleasing version of baba al rhum. (Expect to pay around 110€ for three such courses.)
The 328 offerings on the wine list are all Italian, apart from the champagnes. Prices start at 50€ for a cabernet sauvignon from Friuli and go up to 1,500€ for the 2010 vintage of Mr Gaja’s ‘Costa Russi’ nebbiolo from Piedmont. Those who like super-Tuscans are well served, with 4 vintages of Masseto (the 2013 is 1,400€), 13 vintages of Tignanello (1999 - 420€), 9 of Solaia (2000 - 600€), 11 of Sassicaia (2015 -
680€) and 8 of Ornellaia (2015 - 400€). The ever-reliable Cervaro della Sala from Antinori is 90€ (2020) and 2009 Cristal champagne is 460€. After a decent meal and a glass (or two) of such wines, it was a joy to be able to go off to one of the balconies of my room, to sit in the coolness of the evening and gaze across to the faint lights of far-off Naples.
You do not have to be a king, like Ferouk, to adore this hotel. We commoners love it, too. Its remarkable location, its elegant style and its welcoming hospitality mean that it really does live up to its motto: Never settle for less than your dreams.
Via Orlandi 4, Anacapri, 80071 Capri, Italy.
Telephone +39 081 837 3395
Fax +39 081 837 1444
Email: info@caesar-augustus.com
See the hotel website for the rates for specific dates and for special offers
Open from April to October