Bown's Best - La Citadelle, Metz, France

METZ

LA CITADELLE

La Citadelle, Metz, France There is one establishment essential to civilized motor travel on the Continent: the good stopover hotel. These places are the unsung heroes of the hospitality industry. Without them, we independent travellers would find our journeys miserable and uncomfortable. With them, we can actually look forward to the overnight pause en route to the Swiss lake or to the Mediterranean resort. The best of them offer us a friendly welcome, comfortable accommodation, hearty food and fine wine and send us off on our way cheered by a tip-top breakfast. I have found an exceptional stopover: La Citadelle, in Metz.

Metz is ideally placed for those of us who like to drive from the Channel Tunnel to Switzerland and Northern Italy. It is a long drive, but it is an easy one – thanks to the wonderful quality of the French motorways. And, just as important, the lodgings I am about to recommend to you are magically close to an exit from the autoroute, and thus is avoided that awful sensation of thinking one has arrived and then finding there is another hour’s trek on minor roads before one can finally draw to a halt. The Royce had purred sweetly across Northern France and I was feeling mightily pleased with her by the time we drew up outside the vast stone pile which is La Citadelle.

La Citadelle, Metz, France Metz once possessed a gigantic military citadel. All of it has gone, except for this remarkable edifice, which was built as an army supplies store in 1559. Four and a half centuries later it was restored, given a bright and stylish interior – with much stone, glass and steel – and opened as the city’s best hostelry, with 79 rooms. Since 2005 it has been attracting those from far and near who like something different from the usual city-centre hotel. Now its chef, Christophe Dufossé, has a Michelin star, so it is an even more attractive establishment in which to stay. (Unfortunately for me, the hotel restaurant – Le Magasin aux Vivres – had been commandeered by a wedding party for the evening of my stay, so a report on the dining room will have to await my next visit.)

My billet was on the second floor. Room number 224 was an ‘Exclusive’ and was therefore 287 euros a night, bed and breakfast for two. La Citadelle, Metz, France Its colours were red, black, beige and cream. I liked the sense of space – I judged the bedroom to measure 16 feet by 14 feet – and I liked even more the absolute quietness. Its two arched windows overlooked the lovely garden square at the front of the building. The air conditioning was effective and the lighting from the five lamps was discreet. Having stowed my suits behind the black, louvred doors of the wardrobe, I sat on the two-seater sofa and tucked into the bowl of (delicious) sliced fruits and berries which had been placed on the coffee table for my arrival. Afterwards I inspected the tiled bathroom. It, too, was modern and comfortable, with one wash basin, a tub, a separate shower and a separate loo. Then it was out for a walk.

Metz is a handsome town and La Citadelle is very close to its major sights. The mediaeval Cathedral of St Etienne has one of the highest Gothic naves in Europe. Those of you who are keen on stained glass will know that the cathedral also has a famous collection, running from the work of 13th century craftsmen to the moody creations in the 20th century of Marc Chagall. On my way back I spied one or two beautiful houses, squashed between the modern cafés and shops. As always, one needs to look up to see what is best.

Breakfast the following morning was served in a room with stone arches, which was open to the main hallway of the hotel. I did not really care for the gloomy canned music, but I could find no fault with the food on offer. From the buffet I secured breads, jams, orange juice, sausages and scambled eggs. All of these items were first class. A charming young waitress brought to me a chromium pot of coffee, which I poured into a glass cup.

Then it was off on the next leg of my journey. As I settled back into the Royce’s pleated leather, I felt grateful to the hotel in Metz. Solid, sustaining hospitality is exactly what I want in a good stopover hotel. And La Citadelle is a good – a very good – stopover hotel.

La Citadelle, Metz, France

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