contact: info@bownsbest.com
contact: info@bownsbest.com
Fabio Picchi is a very talented and experienced chef. He opened his famous dining room in Florence - still in a street between the piazza Ghiberti and the via dei Macci - in 1979. Now he has created another impressive restaurant right in the centre of the city, a few steps from the piazza della Repubblica - the Cibrèo Ristorante & Cocktail Bar. (Cibrèo, incidentally, is a ragout, which used to be made for the family by the Chef’s mother.)
It is a splendid place. Indeed, splendour was the first word which occurred to me when I entered the building, which might have something to do with the fact that the premises were once inhabited by the Banca di Roma, no less. If you like pillars, giant chandeliers and red velvet, you will be in heaven. But the interior design, by Massimo Adario, has softened the commercial origins to create an environment which is welcoming and entirely conducive to the enjoyment of good food. And good food, of the traditional Tuscan and Italian sort, is what I received, served in generous portions and with an eye to attractive presentation.
I was looked after by Giovanni Pugliese, the Group Director of Food and Beverage, a model of charm and sophistication, who presided over a pleasant and friendly staff. I was grateful to him for turning off the canned music and also for persuading me to try the tagliolino dish not with white truffle but with the wonderful fungus of the moment, cardoncelli (king oyster mushrooms). With its butter sauce it proved subtly delicious.
Down one side of the main room is the Cocktail Bar, with its long counter of yellow Siena marble. I confess that I am not a cocktail person. My sophistication in such matters extends no further than a glass of Pimm’s in summer. But this particular facility certainly seemed popular with la bella gente of Florence. My interest went instead to the wine list. Its 200 offerings are nearly all Italian, except for the champagnes. Prices run from 30€ for a white Tuscan sangiovese to 700€ for the 2000 vintage of the revered super-Tuscan, Solaia. I quaffed a fine Tuscan red of the same vintage, with a defined structure, complex aromas and ripe black fruit, a vino nobile di Montepulciano (Giudotti), recommended by Mr Pugliese.
This partnered a lovely piece of beef, grilled over charcoal and served with more of the king oyster mushrooms and green beans. I ended my dinner with a spectacularly good version of tarte tatin, with the finest pastry I have enjoyed for a long time.
The Cibrèo Ristorante & Cocktail Bar is a noteworthy addition to the fine restaurants of Florence. I heartily recommend it.
Via dei Vecchietti 5, 50123 Florence, Italy.
Tel. +39 055 266 51
Email: booking@cibreo.com