My bed/sitting room measured about 16 feet by 14 feet, and had a floor of red and grey marble. There was plenty of hanging space for my suits in the two fitted wardrobes, one of which contained a private safe. Two upright armchairs and a sofa-bed provided the seating. Behind the headboard of the main bed was a writing desk. In addition to the table lamps, lighting came from two wall-mounted golden roundels, behind which were electric bulbs. In the marble-clad bathroom were toiletries by Battistioni, one wash basin, a tub of reasonable size (with an overhead shower), a loo and a bidet. This was a comfortable billet. And my stay was made all the more comfortable by the help and kindness I received from the hotel’s suave manager, Bruno Papaleo, who goes to considerable lengths to ensure that his guests are looked after well.

Eating at the Palazzo Manfredi was a particular pleasure. The Restaurant Aroma, at the top of the building, enjoys the best views of the Colosseum and is blessed with a brilliant chef, Giuseppe di Lorio (pictured), to whom the Michelin inspectors have awarded one of their coveted stars. To reach the dining room, one uses the lift to the third floor and then walks up the stairs to the fourth. (Remember, this is a 17th Century building.)

For dinner, I settled into one of the metal chairs (with cushions) and gazed at the panorama, which included two floodlit beauties – the Vittoriano (the grandiose monument to King Victor Emmanuel II) and the dome of St Peter’s basilica. On my table the napery was grey and the glassware was by Riedel. To this sopisticated setting were brought dishes of impressive refinement. There was canned music, yes, but the Restaurant Manager, Maurizio Ciurli – who looked after me exceptionally well – had it turned down at my request. The service over which he presided was both courteous and correct. It included not only replacing the napkins of those who left the table for a moment, but also providing me with an extra table lamp, so that I could see more clearly the food before me.

I wanted to see it clearly, because it was so good. An amuse-bouche of beef tartare set the high standards which were maintained throughout the meal. Culatello ham from Zibello, served on a large white, square plate, was balanced in a delightful manner by peach and lemon compote. Spaghetti (very slightly al dente) came with a subtle rabbit ragout and zolfini beans with a hint of cumin. But the star of this particular performance was the sliced Wagyu Kobe beef – of such tenderness and rich flavour that I was overcome by carnivoral joy. The conclusion was nearly as good and was full of fun – a coconut sphere with an apricot heart on white chocolate crumble. (These four courses were 193€.) This was a lovely meal.