contact: info@bownsbest.com
contact: info@bownsbest.com
The Park Hyatt Milan is now in the top league of the world’s great hotels. It is an hotel in which I feel that every member of staff is taking pleasure in ensuring that my slightest need is met promptly, courteously and efficiently. (For example, on this visit I needed to have access to a computer. One was brought to my room within minutes, together with an excellent gentleman who showed me exactly what I needed to do.) Moreover, it has the perfect location. First, it is quiet, and quietness is an absolute requirement for a luxury hotel. Second, it is central, and being at the heart of things is necessary in an important city like Milan. And third, it is close both to the magnificent gothic Duomo and to one of the finest opera houses in the world, La Scala.
And there is another vitally important factor. The hotel has a very good General Manager. That is why I am pleased to present to you a photograph of Simone Giorgi, next to your correspondent. He is an affable and charming gentleman, who likes good shirts. As we attribute the victory of an army to the general in command, so we should praise the hotel manager who leads his troops in such a manner that his establishment offers hospitality of the highest order. So I salute Mr Giorgi for the members of his staff. They are smartly dressed, highly motivated and friendly.
The hotel occupies a 19th century palazzo, next to the famous Galleria (the enormous shopping arcade which is called ‘Milan’s drawing room’). Built in 1870, the palazzo was converted into the Park Hyatt in 2003. Externally, its period elegance has been perfectly preserved. It looks the sort of place in which persons of refinement would feel at home. Internally, its elegance is of an altogether different kind. Designed by Ed Tuttle, the interior is discreet and sophisticated. Natural light is everywhere. Granite and marble are all about and Classical references (like the octagonal columns of pink granite around the central cupola) subtly suggest the timelessness of this form of luxury. If you have the sense that I approve of the Park Hyatt, you are correct.
I was shown to room 422, a ‘double deluxe’ on the second floor. (You should check the rates for specific dates on the internet.) Here was more cause for pleasure. Tall windows and high ceilings made this apartment feel both spacious and welcoming. I noted with approval the coffee table with a mosaic top, the writing desk, the thick carpet and the floor of lightwood. The modern abstract painting was ‘interesting’. No noise seemed capable of penetrating this billet, and the very efficient air conditioning was silent. It took me a while to work out how the lighting system worked, but then – with the spotlights dimmed – I could relax here in comfort. The kind ladies from Housekeeping had put duvets under the bottom sheet, so my bed was soft enough for my ailing back.
My bathroom was of a generous size. It contained three hanging spaces (one with a safe), 2 wash basins surrounded by marble, a large free-standing bath-tub - in which I could (and did) happily submerge - and a pair of scales, which I dare not use. These were combined with a walk-in shower, toiletries by Laura Tonatto and a plentiful supply of large white towels.
One aspect of this accommodation must be noted. Facilities were provided for making my own coffee and tea. The latter can be something of a problem on the Continent, for not all our European friends are au fait with our way of celebrating the afternoon ritual. But here there were not only decent cups, saucers and shiny teaspoons but also - mirabile dictu! - a lovely, white, porcelain teapot.
The service at breakfast continued the exemplary theme, being overseen by the splendid Alessandra, a fine lady who has been looking after me at the breaking of the fast since I first visited the Park Hyatt Milan 15 years ago. This most important meal of the day is served under the impressive glass dome of the restaurant La Cupola. Here she brought to my table pots of coffee and plates of poached eggs, bacon and tomatoes, as well as lovely warm croissants. And from the extensive buffet I secured cakes, cheeses and bowls filled with strawberries, melon and pineapple. I even - when I could no longer suppress my craving for ‘healthy’ alternatives - tucked into slices of raw carrot and celery.
For dinner, guests can go to the hotel’s gastronomic shrine, Pellico 3, where Chef Guido Paternollo has a Michelin star. But I returned to La Cupola, which serves food throughout the day but was now transformed by subtle lighting and the sky beyond the glass roof into what Santa’s Little Helpers might have called a Winter Wonderland.
Here did I enjoy the attentive service of Pietro, who recommended some interesting wines. La Cupola has its own short list of 52 offerings, with prices running from 50€ to 500€, but access is freely available to the substantial cellar used by the Michelin-starred dining room. This contains gems like 2013 Masseto (1,450€), 2005 Vega Sicilia (890€) and 2005 Yquem (1,200€). And if your taste is for the finest pink bubbly, 1996 Dom Pérignon rosé can be had for 3,000€. At Pietro’s suggestion I began with a complex, full-bodied, nutty, fizzing Franciacorta (Berlucchi “61”, 2015 - 100€), went on to a firm, vanilla-laden chardonnay (Damilano, Langhe, 2018 - 95€) and finished with a good, straightforward example of barolo (Sobrero, Tanasio, 2018 - 75€).
With this good drinking went some good eating. Indeed, my first course was exceptional: a mushroom risotto of dense, caressing flavour, made spectacular by shavings of black truffle on top - a confection made particularly entrancing by the accompanying chardonnay. And my tournedos Rossini with roasted rosemary potatoes was a lovely dish, partnered to both their advantage by the barolo. A rum baba finished off a most enjoyable dinner. (Expect to pay around 100€ for three such courses.)
The Park Hyatt is a model of good taste, superbly located in the very centre of the great city of Milan. It is stylish, luxurious and run by persons who are rightly proud of its high standards. That is why it is in the top league of the world’s great hotels.
Via Tommaso Grossi 1, 20121 Milan, Italy.
Telephone +39 02 88 21 1234
Fax +39 02 88 21 1235
Email: milan.park@hyatt.com
Check on the website for the rates for specific dates
La Cupola - open every day throughout the day
Pellico 3 - open for dinner only. Closed on Sunday and Monday.