Bown's Best - Restaurant, La Residence de la Pindede, St Tropez, France

ST-TROPEZ

RESTAURANT AT LA RÉSIDENCE DE LA PINÈDE

Restaurant, La Residence de la Pindede, St Tropez, France Some settings for dinner are so lovely that they demand a little sartorial effort. I am not a person who likes ‘designer’ clothes. They seem to me to be, too often, over-priced and lacking in form. I am a chap who appreciates the bespoke – the item made specifically for me by skilled craftsmen, using the finest materials and traditional techniques. When I tell you, therefore, that my dress for this particular evening in St-Tropez included bespoke shoes from George Cleverley, a bespoke shirt from Harvie & Hudson and a bespoke suit from Henry Poole, you will know that my destination must have been very special indeed. It was. I was dining at the Restaurant of La Résidence de la Pinède.

The word ‘immaculate’ might have been invented for this hotel. Pure and spotless, it nudges the waters of the bay with manicured lawns and perfect balustrades. On this warm summer evening, I was shown to a table on the terrace of the restaurant. Shaded from the sinking sun by an umbrella of white and yellow, I looked across the water at the far-off lights of Ste-Maxime. The sails of a distant yacht added a soupçon of animation to the panorama. A single candle, protected by clear glass, burnt steadily on my white tablecloth. I observed that the waiters in black tie were careful to replace the napkin of any diner who left the table for a moment. I examined, as I always do, the glassware, and was pleased to find it was by Schott. Yes, this was a special place.

Restaurant, La Residence de la Pindede, St Tropez, France Chef Arnaud Donckele uses luxury ingredients with style and panache. Here I enjoyed what I ate and I enjoyed looking at what I was about to eat. I also enjoyed thinking about what I had ordered – for the dishes on Monsieur Donckele’s menu appealed to me enormously. Ponder this: “Salad of pigeon with soft-boiled quail’s eggs, truffles and foie gras.” I could happily have dwelt on that for quite a long time. But it was soon in front of me, and then it was sheer, unadulterated pleasure. In conception and execution this was a triumph. With the breast on the main plate and the leg, in batter, on a side dish, the combination of tastes and textures from the meat, the liver, the fungus and the greenery was almost magical.

Restaurant, La Residence de la Pindede, St Tropez, France More foie gras and truffle came, along with artichoke, with my macaroni. The essence of richness. Then it was a roasted duck, served in two courses, with figs, rhubarb and orange. And, to end, a complete contrast: a delightfully delicate millefeuille of raspberries with rose syrup – the roses coming from Grasse and having, presumably, been rescued from the perfume factories of that town. (These four courses from the carte were 210 euros. Two set menus are available – 90 euros for 3 courses and 120 euros for 4 courses.)

From the wine list you can quaff 1999 Romanée-Conti for 4,000 euros or a local white for 48 euros. In between come many of the most prestigious names in France. 1975 Yquem is 2,000 euros, 1989 Pétrus is 3,350 euros, 1995 Margaux is 1,300 euros and 1996 Haut Brion is 505 euros. I sounded three cheers for sommelier Franck Perroud. He recommended two super burgundies. My white was a big, fat, creamy Meursault, the perfect partner for the macaroni (1er Cru, Genevrières, Bouzereau, 2003 – 135 euros); and my red was a Morey St-Denis with an enticing nose of sweaty socks (1er Cru, Dom. des Lambrays, 1995 – 128 euros).

By the time of the coffee it was dark, and the moon had taken over the task of dancing upon the gentle waves of the Bay. It was time to leave this enchanting spot. I was glad I had made the sartorial effort for my visit. And I was glad that the food and the drink and the service at the Restaurant of La Résidence de la Pinèede had lived up to this lovely setting.

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