This is very much a family business, and I found the welcome unrestrained in its friendliness, particularly from Daniela, next to whom I am standing in the photograph. I was happy to accept her suggestions for my dinner (for which you should allow 65€ and up). I began with a very large portion of tasty gravadlax. Now I know that you, dear Reader, will object that Italy does not produce salmon, so my comments about the freshness of the fish are irrelevant for this dish. That is true, but I love gravadlax and so could not resist this fine version.

No such reservation can be entered, however, for my main course, which was very much “Catch of the Day”. A fine whole sea bass was grilled, brought to the table and boned as I watched hungrily. This was wonderful fish, set off effectively with sliced and roasted potatoes. Over a dish such as this do piscophiles swoon, and carnivores turn from their meat. And the pudding was nearly as good: a massively indulgent mille-feuille with fresh raspberries.

If you wish to eat fish in Santa Margherita Ligure, go to La Paranza. You will not be disappointed.