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An elegant suite overlooking the city of Rome, with fine restaurants within the same building - there is a lot to enjoy when you stay at the Cavalieri Waldorf Astoria Hotel. It is in an affluent suburb of Rome, on top of one of the hills. Externally, the building is modern in appearance, although its straight lines are softened by carefully placed vines. Inside, the sense is of great space and of good
taste – for the hotel is packed with impressive pieces of art. If you like fine oil paintings and antique furniture (and which civilised person does not?), you will love it here. My own billet was on the 3rd floor.
Room 367 was a Premium Suite (check the hotel website for the rates for specific dates). A large hallway - with the polished wooden floors which were a feature of the apartment - led to the spacious sitting room. Here I had a sofa and easy chairs, of course, but I liked best the huge antique writing desk with gilt ormolu mounts - at which I could sit and imagine myself a court official in the time of
Louis XVI. Pale gold silk covered the walls and lighting came from numerous spotlights and elegant table lamps. As in the bedroom, sliding doors of plate glass opened the way to my balcony, where I could sit and ponder the history of the Eternal City, set out before me.
My sleeping quarters included a huge bed, made specially soft for me, and a handsome wing chair. Fitted wardrobes with a safe accommodated my suits. Ablutions were carried out within a marble chamber with two walk-in showers, where I was surrounded by many towels of huge size. Toiletries were by Acqua di Parma.
Occupants of suites have access to the Imperial Club on the 7 th floor. This is a wonderful facility. Apart from its comfort and its luxury, this handsome lounge offers complimentary refreshments until early evening each day. I took full advantage of these immaculately prepared offerings, quaffing cocktails in the evenings, Earl Grey tea with scones and jam and cakes in the afternoons and
breakfast (with toast, omelettes and warm croissants) in the mornings. The Club room has its own balconies, so I could enjoy these lovely comestibles without having to forgo the panorama I enjoyed from my own room.
The hotel’s ground floor restaurant is L’Uliveto. It is open for those who like a substantial breakfast, but you should not neglect its quieter and more sophisticated evening character. Its cuisine is excellent, its floor is of black and white marble and its period oil paintings are exquisite. (Summer eating outside overlooking the swimming pool is popular.) I was shown to my large round table by the maître d’, Sandro Quintarelli. My picture shows this charming gentleman standing next to me. Signor Quintarelli looked after me with delightful courtesy throughout the evening. Comfortably settled in a supportive armchair - important at my advancing age - I surveyed the good white crockery and sparkling Riedel glasses and sampled the excellent focaccia and olive oil.
The food of Chef Nicholas Cuomo is Italian, straightforward, of high quality and prepared with consummate skill. On duty the evening of my visit was the sous Chef, Daniele Foscolo - pictured with your correspondent. This young man provided me with a meal which I enjoyed tremendously. I can never resist truffles. My first course had them aplenty: the soft and yielding tagliolini had disappeared
beneath them, beautifully completed by plenty of melted Alpine butter and a hint of chives. Deliciously simple and simply delicious. Then it was a dish for a lover of meat: tender Scottona fillet of beef, jus, with mixed mushrooms and potato millefeuille - a tasty plate to set before a hungry Englishman. I ended with a sophisticated version of tiramisù - strange to think this classic dates only from the
1960s - which maintained the high standards.
The wine list is medium in length and mostly Italian in origin. Prices are friendly and run from a white Frascati at 40€ to Solaia 2011 at 700€ and Cristal rosé champagne 2013 at 1,100€. The always reliable chardonnays Planeta (2022 - 65€) and Cervaro della Sala (2021 - 140€) are available. Signor Quintarelli directed me to a 2015 Platone primitivo with an enticing nose to partner the beef.
The Rome Cavalieri Waldorf Astoria is an impressive hotel. I was delighted to find that its ‘other’ dining room - the famous La Pergola is on the top floor (see separate article) - can properly be described as a destination in its own right for discerning gourmets. This was a very happy visit.
Via Cadiolo 101, Rome 00136, Italy
Telephone +39 06 35091
Fax +39 06 3509 2241
Email: romecavalieri.reservations@waldorfastoria.com
Check on hotel website for room prices for specific dates
Ask about special offers
RISTORANTE L'ULIVETO
same address
Telephone +39 06 3509 2145
Email: ROMHI.FB@waldorfastoria.com
Ask about the rates for specific dates