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Back to reviews in Italy
When I arranged to go for dinner at the Terrazza Tiberio, I had no idea what to expect. I knew that the hotel, of which this restaurant is the dining room, had been part of an hotel chain – but that it had recently broken free of its chain and had been totally (and expensively) restored. That sounded promising. Although I had been to Capri many times before, I had not set eyes on this particular property – probably because it is up a steep little hill, away from the Piazzetta, and I have a longstanding aversion to climbs of even the least taxing kind. But the ascent – if such the few yards of effort can be called – was certainly worth my modest exertion. For what awaited my arrival was to bring a happy smile to my lips.
It was not a ‘what’ but a ‘who’ – none other than Edoardo Officoso (pictured). He came bounding out as I entered the Reception area, full of his customary enthusiastic charm. We had last met at the Park Hyatt in Milan. I had no idea he had moved. But here he was: newly installed as the General Manager of the Capri Tiberio Palace Hotel. Of one thing I was therefore immediately certain: the hotel is in safe hands.
And it deserves to be, for it is now a very elegant establishment. Its interior design is the work of Giampiero Panepinto. The atmosphere he has achieved – by the use of a style which is modern, friendly and comfortable, with occasional references to Antiquity – imparts a sense of luxury which is both welcoming and uplifting. I was intrigued to discover that the hotel includes a bookshop. I peered into its various cabinets and discovered that I could have purchased – had I had both the pennies and the strength to lift it – a massive volume dedicated to the works of Michelangelo. Good taste was therefore all around.
It was sufficiently clement to have a table on the terrace of the first-floor restaurant, from which there is a charming view over the rooftops to the sea. It was soon clear that standards had been set high. Members of staff were smart in their dark suits, the glassware was by Schott, the tablecloths were white, napkins were replaced and – a ceremony new to me – my glass was carefully iced by my waiter, Alfredo, before the white wine was poured into it.
I know that Mr Officioso will soon be turning his attention to the wine list, and he needs to do so. It has about 125 bottles, all Italian except for the champagne (Cristal is 250ε and Krug rosé is 500ε). Prices range from a local white at 20ε to Mr Gaja’s Sorì Tildin at 300ε. There is much of interest. The problem is that the vintages are not given, and it is therefore impossible to estimate the quality or the value of the wine being offered. Here are some of the super-Tuscans: Tignanello (90ε), Sasicaia (150ε), Solaia (200ε) and Ornellaia (200ε). It would have been most interesting to know the vintages.
Still, I did drink well. First, I went to Umbria and quaffed that always reliable chardonnay Cervaro della Sala from Antinori, in its 2007 vintage (60ε) – with a nose both fresh and nutty and with much vanilla in the mouth. Then it was a local red. The aglianico grape is much used in Campania and is capable of great things. This one, once decanted, yielded depths of delicious ripe black cherries (Irpinia, Serpico, San Gregorio, 2005 - 60ε).
Chef Marco Iaccarino was born in Capri. He came to my table to say hello. His food is served in healthy portions. From his kitchen were brought a quartet of dishes into which I tucked: eggplant flan with buffalo ricotta cheese and smoked cheese on tomato and pesto sauce, cheese ravioli with cherry tomatoes and basil and beef fillet with a merlot sauce. My pudding of pineapple carpaccio with ginger and passion fruit sorbet – made by the talented young pastry chef, Stefano Cerrotta – was first class and a delightful way to end my meal. (Allow around 80ε for four courses.)
The Emperor Tiberius made Capri his main home for ten years. It is reported that, during that time, he indulged in activities upon which we will certainly not dwell. The hotel and restaurant which now bear his name are altogether more civilized. And now I know what to expect of them, I will certainly return.
Capri Tiberio Palace Hotel, Vi Croce 11-14, 80073 Capri, Italy.
Telephone +39 081 97 87 11
Fax +39 081 83 74 493
Email: info@tiberiopalace.com
www.capritiberiopalace.it
