contact: info@bownsbest.com
Pavia is a delightful place for a weekend away. Conveniently situated a few miles south of Milan, not far from the motorway, even I found it easy to reach by means of an aeroplane and a hire car. It houses both a mighty cathedral and an ancient university, as well as the relics of one the most significant figures in the history of the Christian Church - St Augustine of Hippo. It is therefore a place of importance and should be better known to English-speaking visitors. But where should one stay? I know the place.
I confess that I had some difficulty in finding my way into the Arnaboldi Palace. Its entrance is in a side street off the main shopping thoroughfare and it is so discreet that I had to walk up and down several times before I found it. Then a brief exchange through an intercom saw the door open into an uninviting hallway. Thence a tiny lift took me to the second floor. Through an elderly wooden door I discovered a world of gilt mirrors, antique furniture, oil paintings and crystal chandeliers. I had arrived in a proper palace.
In fact, the Arnaboldi Palace occupies the piano nobile of a late Nineteenth Century building in the very centre of Pavia. If you are familiar with the Galleria Vittoria Emanuele II in Milan (what locals call “Milan’s drawing room”), this is Pavia’s version. Indeed, its central octagonal square surmounted by a glass and iron dome was inspired by the Galleria.
As Pavia’s streets are narrow in the ancient manner, motor traffic is severely restricted. But the Arnaboldi Palace will give you precise directions and, once you have arrived, a member of staff will ensure your car is taken away to safety. This is a service well worth the small extra charge.
The members of staff I encountered - particularly Ricardo on the front desk - afforded me a friendly welcome and I was soon relaxing in my spacious and air conditioned room, admiring its large oil painting of St Philip Neri distributing bread to the poor. The walls were white and lighting was provided by a chandelier of crystal, spotlights and table lamps in the form of golden lions. The sense of traditional grandeur was reinforced by the floor of brown marble and by the ancient hanging wardrobe. The bathroom was more modern in its style.
I have mentioned the Palace’s central location. It meant that it was easy, even for me, to see the main sights and to walk to the church of San Pietro in Ciel D’Oro to venerate the relics of St Augustine. (You should note, however, that the world famous Certosa di Pavia - a Carthusian monastery - is some way out of the town and requires a taxi to take you there and back.)
The Palace does not provide dinner, but there are many restaurants in close proximity. What it does provide is a jolly good breakfast in its impressive Grand Salon. Here each morning I tucked into croissants, fruit tartlets, apples, plums and grapes, crusty bread and strawberry jam and plates of ham and cheese, all washed down with pots of Twining’s English Breakfast tea. It was lovely to linger here at a corner table and gaze through the window up at the dome and cupola of the Cathedral, silhouetted against a clear blue sky.
I hope I will return to the Arnaboldi Palace. It is a gem in a city of gems.
Via Varese 8, 27100 Pavia, Lombardy, Italy.
Telephone +39 (0)382 22219
Email: info@arnaboldipalace.com
Double rooms from 300€, including breakfast