contact: info@bownsbest.com
contact: info@bownsbest.com
Occasionally, it pleases me to call to mind some of the remarkable combinations I have encountered in my travels. I smile when I remember sipping gin and tonic and gazing at a perfect Greek temple – in Agrigento, in Sicily. Now I have a new pairing to add to my list of ‘greats’: the view of a bird and the surroundings of a prince. This magical marriage sounds like the stuff of fairytales. In fact, it is on offer to all those lucky enough to stay at the Belmond Hotel Caruso in Ravello.
The Amalfi Coast is one of the prettiest parts of Italy. Even if you have never been there, you are likely to have seen some of its wonders, for the makers of films and the advertisers of motor cars have long used its winding roads and impressive cliffs to add glamour and romance to their productions. 1,200 feet above this stretch of sea perches the exquisite confection of ancient churches and palaces which is Ravello. A thousand years ago one of those palaces was built by the D’Afflitto family. Much altered over the centuries, the building was opened as an hotel in 1893 by a gentleman called Pantaleone Caruso. Soon it was attracting guests of the very grandest sort. Eventually, they would include Greta Garbo, Humphrey Bogart, Jackie Kennedy... and me.
Of course, a great deal has happened to the Caruso since it opened its doors. Now it is part of the Belmond group of luxury hotels. Many millions have been poured into its restoration. 18th century frescoes have been uncovered, Norman arches repaired, hand-made tiles laid and 12th century stonework cleaned. As I hope the pictures convey, the result is truly wonderful. History and good taste have combined to produce surroundings which are welcoming, comfortable and beautiful - princely, in fact. The interior designer, Federico Forquet, has respected the integrity of this important building.
My taxi took about an hour and a half to get from the airport in Naples. On my arrival I was greeted by the Caruso’s Managing Director, Alfonso Pacifico (pictured with your correspondent and a Roman emperor). He is a gentleman whose charm and enthusiasm are matched by his consummate professionalism. Without doubt, the Caruso is in good hands.
Signor Pacifico showed me to one of the hotel’s 50 rooms. This was number 64 (pictured) – a Deluxe Junior Suite Sea View. This was exactly my sort of apartment: cool, spacious and elegant. From its vaulted ceiling hung a gilt and crystal chandelier in the empire style. Its furniture included a pretty sofa, and the bed was huge in size and huge in comfort. French doors led to my own loggia with a table and wicker chairs. From its balcony I beheld a panorama of startling beauty, with the coastline hundreds of feet below. This was my view of a bird.
Within the white marble bathroom were a large tub, a walk-in shower and two wash basins. I particularly liked the temperature control on the bath taps, which worked with remarkable efficiency. A bidet was in the separate loo.
Bedrooms should be restful, and this one was. The bedside lamps were dimmable, so I could easily create a sense of calm and serenity. Equally important, the air conditioning was both effective and quiet. And the small but important details were a joy - like the rug put out for bedtime, which was cushioned.
Joy was part of breakfast, too. The sun shone and its worshippers broke their fast on the terrace of the restaurant, with the view along the coast. Being less keen on the warming rays myself, I retreated to a large round table in the interior. To its green tablecloth Johnny, my efficient and cheerful waiter, brought warm croissants, bacon, mushrooms on toast and plentiful supplies of coffee in white porcelain pots. Each day I lingered over these comestibles and then meandered through the hotel’s lovely gardens, pausing by the ‘infinity’ swimming pool, surely one of the loveliest in the world. This was sufficient exercise until the exertion of dressing for dinner.
The picture shows your correspondent with, from left to right, the Restaurant Manager Alfonso Amatruda, Chef Armando Aristarco and the waiter Johnny. If ever the hotel wishes to put on a tableau vivant of historical characters, Mr Aristarco, with his fine waxed moustache, would be ideal for the part of King Charles I. Chef Aristarco’s cuisine is certainly fit for a king. The highlights of my meals were plates of tender tagliolini with shavings of white truffle, succulent salt-baked sea bass plated by the table, superb tournedos Rossini with gorgeous beef and excellent Italian foie gras, and lemon cake with vanilla ice cream. Service was attentive and proper, napkins being replaced for diners who left the table for a moment.
Most of the 495 offerings on the wine list are Italian or French, with many magnums. Prices run from 55€ for a local aglianico to 12,000€ for the 2006 vintage of Pétrus. Super Tuscans are well represented, with 1997 Luce (210€), 1998 Solaia (648€), 2005 Ornellaia (1,140€ magnum) and 2014 Masseto (3,380€ magnum). My thanks go to Angelo Altobelli, the Director of Food and Beverage, who directed me to two memorable bottles: from Burgundy a 2021 Pouilly-Fuissé of vanilla and elegance (152€) and a massive, complex, fruit-laden aglianico from Paestum (Omaggio a Gillo Dorfles, San Salvatore, 2016 - 90€). Poured into good Zwiesal and Spiegelau glasses, these wines were delicious.
The Caruso is rightly considered one of Europe’s great hotels. It offers the view of a bird and the surroundings of a prince. For what more could one ask?
Piazza San Giovanni del Toro 2, 84010 Ravello, Italy.
Telephone +39 089 858 801
Fax +39 089 858 806
Email: reservations.car@belmond.com
Double rooms from around 600€-800€, including breakfast, according to season.
Open from March to November
See the hotel website for the rates for specific dates and for special offers