contact: info@bownsbest.com
contact: info@bownsbest.com
The Bernini Palace is the sort of traditional hotel for which we should offer praise to the Almighty. Thanks to the long-serving General Manager, David Foschi, its standards of service and civility bring smiles to the faces of its fortunate guests. Mr Foschi (pictured with your correspondent) joined the hotel in a junior capacity and worked his way to the top. He clearly loves every part of his establishment and is proud of its every nook and cranny. It is his constant attention to detail which raises this hostelry above the ordinary. It also occupies one the best locations in Florence.
The Bernini Palace overlooks what I regard as a little city within the great city: a quiet enclave just steps from the bustle of the piazza della Signoria and only a few yards from the divine sculptures within the Bargello. Next to the Church of St Philip Neri, this handsome period building has been an hotel since the 19th Century – and, indeed, in that century was much used by parliamentarians when Florence was for a brief period the capital of Italy. Here then is that pleasing patina which comes with the passage of time and for which more modern establishments can only long. It is a place of calm contentment.
As I walked through the stately public rooms towards the lift, the plaster heads of ladies in fancy headgear looked down upon me, a reminder of the famous hat shop which used to be nearby. Such little details made the atmosphere entirely right. I stayed in apartment 202 on the first floor, a ‘Grand Deluxe’.
Everyone wants A Room With A View in Florence. And here it was. Through my window I gazed upon Brunelleschi’s dome on the cathedral, framed by two tall mediaeval bell towers. For what more could one wish? Beauty without was complemented by comfort within. A proper hallway led into the spacious bed-sitting room, its white and gold colours setting off the polished wood and ormolu of the writing desk in the Louis XVI style. Lighting was provided by table lamps and a crystal chandelier. Within the walk-in wardrobe was a private safe and sufficient hanging for my travelling suits. The bathroom was clad with white marble and equipped with a good tub, two wash basins, a walk-in shower, a loo and a bidet.
The Breakfast Room, across the hall from my billet, was large and impressive. Here each morning I settled myself comfortably at a corner table. Above were huge chandeliers of wrought iron and a painted ceiling surrounded by the named portraits of various august gentlemen, politicians from the time when the building played its part in the politics of the newly united Italy. There was canned music, but it was turned off for me by the staff, a group of ladies and gentlemen who proved unfailingly attentive and friendly.
From the buffet I secured plates of prosciutto with pineapple, various delicious cakes and scrambled eggs with bacon and grilled sweet peppers. And to my table were brought China pots of Earl Grey, supplies of warm croissants and - of course - my concluding cappuccino. These were happy breakfasts.
Dinner at the Bernini Palace is served in its dining room on the ground floor, La Chiostrina. Here I was looked after by the Restaurant Manager, Franco – a most courteous and helpful gentleman. I sat back in my red velvet chair, soothed by the peaceful atmosphere (for Franco had kindly extinguished the piped music) and noted with approval the beige napery and the good Bormioli glassware on my round table.
The food here is mostly Italian, straightforward and satisfying. Dishes like fillet of beef with a Chianti reduction and millefeuille with chocolate and Chantilly cream are carefully prepared and presented, so a dinner at the Bernini Palace will always be a satisfying occasion. And the wine list I viewed with much enthusiasm. Apart from the champagnes, the offerings are all Italian and there are just 61 of them. But the prices are exceptionally helpful. Indeed, the section of red super-Tuscans is a list of bargains - chief among them 2020 Sassicaia for 205€. Others include 2020 Tignanello (140€), 2013 Luce (160€), 2020 Ornellaia (306€), 2020 Solaia (316€) and the most expensive bottle on the list, 2018 Solaia (340€). My own drinking, thanks to Franco’s recommendations, was splendid: glasses of one of my favourite sparkling Italians, Franciacorta (Bellavista) and a Tuscan red of enticing complexity, ripe black fruit and a yielding structure (2018 Brunello di Montalcino, Cantina di Montalcino) for just 55€.
I began by suggesting we should praise the Almighty for establishments like the Bernini Palace. As I left I certainly murmured the Te Deum, for thanksgiving is the proper response after a stay at an hotel which is so welcoming, so civilised and so properly traditional.
Piazza San Firenze 29 (Piazza della Signoria), 50122 Florence, Italy.
Telephone +39 055 288 621
Email: info.hotelbernini@duetorrihotels.com
Check the hotel website for the rates on specific dates and for special offers