contact: info@bownsbest.com
contact: info@bownsbest.com
The Casa Angelina is deliciously white and outrageously modern. It occupies a spotless villa in one of the very best locations on the Costa Amalfitana. From its elevated position, it provides the guests in its 39 rooms with a panorama which embraces Positano, Capri and a substantial stretch of the most famous coastline in the world. Reached by a vertiginous private road, it has the feeling of a luxurious private retreat. In the mornings I counted just three sounds: the bell of the local church calling the faithful to the divine mysteries, the birds singing to welcome the new day and a distant cockerel proclaiming his masculinity. These days my visits to hotels tend towards the ontological rather than the existential – I now much prefer to be, rather than to do – so this sense of pampered isolation appeals to me very much indeed. I enjoyed hugely my time at the Casa Angelina.
The hotel is in the small town of Praiano, between Amalfi and Positano. ‘Praia’ means beach, and the hotel does, indeed, have its own private beach, which can be reached by a lift. But I preferred to stay up in the main building, surrounded by a gathering of glass sculptures by Sosabravo (part of the collection of modern art of Signor Cappiello, the owner) and gaze out of the plate glass windows at the sparkling seascape. Sometimes I was tempted out of the sitting rooms and onto the terrace for my afternoon pot of Earl Grey. But, whether outside or inside, I was always conscious of what a privilege it was to be in this beautiful place.
My room, number 210, was a ‘Romantic Double’. (You will need to check the hotel website for the prices for specific dates.) It was, naturally, very white. Its bed was wonderfully accommodating to my ailing back, as was the commodious tub in the bathroom. Every detail in this modestly-sized apartment was of high quality, including a marvellous device which I had never before encountered. Indeed, I did not know what it was or what it was for. But a friendly chambermaid revealed the mystery: it was a hand-held steamer. Once she had demonstrated its operation, I became a fan - wielding it frequently to remove the creases in my shirts. From my balcony the view of the coast and sea was enchanting.
An establishment of such high standards needs a brilliant manager. And it has one. Managing Director Domenico de Simone (pictured, in strong sunshine, with your correspondent) is always about the place, ensuring that all is well. And his team is a credit to him. I felt pampered and cosseted by every member of staff I encountered. My photograph shows me with three of them. From left to right they are Andrea Confessore, Food & Beverage Manager, Chef Leopoldo Elefante and Sommelier Rosario Mancusi. You will notice the informality of dress, which for me consists of a soft rather than a stiff collar.
The hotel is particularly proud of its breakfasts. And it is right to be proud, for the Casa Angelina serves one of the best breakfasts in Italy. It is not the extent of the buffet which calls forth this tribute. (It is certainly extensive, but anyone can lay on an extensive buffet.) It is the exceptional quality of what is laid out. I tried the melon, the strawberries, the pineapple, the tuna salad, various cold meats, the ham (from Prague, carved to order by a chef), the exquisite croissants (warmed for me), the crusty bread and the marmalade, and I can say without a hint of exaggeration that they were all magnificent. Indeed, they were so good that I had to make a serious effort not to eat far more than was good for me. And added to these delights were the hot dishes cooked to order, like my omelettes with crisp bacon.
The excellence of the food from Leopoldo Elefante’s kitchen - which has deservedly attracted one of the Michelin guide’s coveted stars - continues throughout the day. In the informal restaurant known as Seascape, where the maitre d’ is the lively young Aristotle (pictured with your correspondent) there are no tablecloths but there are fine Riedel glasses. Here I tucked into three straightforward courses of impressive quality: three-year old Parma ham, grilled sea bass with rosemary and a vanilla crumble with cherry sauce. These were washed down with a fine chardonnay of elegant restraint (Curtefranca, Cà del Bosco, 2018).
The grander dining room is at the top of the building and is named appropriately Un piano nel cielo (a floor in the sky). Here there are more Riedel glasses, grey tablecloths and candles. The atmosphere inside and outside on the lovely terrace is calm and sophisticated. Napkins are replaced when guests leave the table for a moment and wooden stools are provided for the ladies’ bags. A welcome innovation on this visit was the cocktail station, which offers drinks of the most exotic sort. Being more of a cellar man, I was much taken with the wine list and its 1,528 offerings (yes, I did count them). And I liked the unusual format, like a small paperback book - easy to look at and use. This is a connoisseur’s list, covering Italy and France in depth and including a few gems from elsewhere. And there are bargains to be had, like these two clarets from the 1998 vintage: Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande at 280€ and Pichon Longueville Baron at 220€. My own bottle was the 2019 full-bodied Sicilian Didacus chardonnay (100€).
Tasting menus are offered (160€ for 5 courses, 200€ for 7 courses) but I stuck to the carte and ate exceptionally well. And the dishes appealed to the eye as well as the palate, for Signor Elefante is an artistic chef. A luscious scallop was beautifully partnered with porcini mushrooms, salted almond and lemon. Tagliolini with white truffle was, I need hardly say, heavenly. Tuna with grain mustard, broccoli and herb-flavoured potatoes was a highly successful combination. And my concluding soufflé brought together blackberries and cashew nuts. This was a splendid dinner.
Indeed, my whole visit was splendid. How to sum up the Casa Angelina? Chic in its unashamed modernity, it is an albino masterpiece.
Via Capriglione 147, Praiano 84010, Amalfi Coast, Italy.
Telephone +39 089 813 1333
Fax +39 089 874 266
Email: reservations@casangelina.com
See the hotel website for the rates for specific dates and for special offers.