contact: info@bownsbest.com
contact: info@bownsbest.com
We British love Sorrento. And we are right to be captivated by this city near Naples. It is situated on top of cliffs above a magnificent bay. Its buildings are handsome, and include a cathedral with a remarkable interior. Its location makes it easy to make day excursions to the islands of Capri and Ischia. And those with an interest in the things of Antiquity are delighted by the proximity of Pompeii and Herculaneum. But there is something else which means I always look forward to a visit with the keenest anticipation: it has one of the most famous hotels in the world. The Grand Hotel Vittoria is a wonder. And it has a wonderful manager, the charming and vivacious Tiziana Laterza.
Since it was first opened in 1834 it has been owned and managed by the Fiorentino family. Of course, its buildings have been renewed and expanded in the last 190 years. But I suspect that the aura of grandeur has been constant, which is why it has always attracted the sort of artistic folk who know what real luxury is all about – people of the stature of Richard Wagner and Enrico Caruso. It is ‘the grand hotel’ of Sorrento, and it is no wonder there has to be a gentleman at the gate to decline entry to the many sightseers who – quite understandably – want to wander through the 20,000 square metres of luscious gardens and have a look at one of the best views on the Italian coast.
The hotel is right in the centre of town, but the gardens keep the hustle and bustle well away. And, on the other side, there is the sheer drop of the cliff and the sea. Should you wish to get close to the water, the hotel’s private lift will waft you right down to sea level. But I preferred to remain on the terrace, shaded from the sun and with a pot of Earl Grey at my side. Tea is my normal afternoon ritual, and there can be few places in Christendom more charming for its enactment than the terrace of the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria. To reach it requires a meander through some of the sitting rooms, which I found so charmingly old-fashioned and so exquisitely furnished that for a moment I wondered if I had wandered onto the set of a film about Edwardian nobility. The service throughout the hotel is properly traditional, too, and the smart members of staff were careful to use my name – a small courtesy which always pleases me.
My apartment was equally pleasing. Room 343, a Garden Suite, is one of the largest apartments in the hotel and its French windows look over beautiful grounds on the landward side. Its vaulted ceilings are home to painted birds and its gilt wall lights and numerous table lamps illuminate a spacious sitting room, an inner hall and a handsome bedroom. Pieces of period furniture, like the plum-coloured sofa, impart the proper sense of restrained luxury. The bed had been made gorgeously soft for me. My ablutions were performed in the black and white bathroom, with its twin wash basins, substantial bath tub, separate shower, loo and bidet. My terrace was an inviting place for a quiet doze after lunch.
Apart from its elegant accommodation, the Excelsior Vittoria has another sparkling gem in its crown: one of the finest restaurants in this part of Italy. The Terrazza Bosquet has one Michelin star, but I will not be surprised if a second floats down from the sky before too long, for Executive Chef Antonino Montefusco is a man of intelligence and supreme artistry in the kitchen. His dishes are beautiful in conception, execution and presentation. Tastes and textures are combined with an exquisite subtlety.
Little wonder, then, that my picture shows a group glowing with pleasure after a magnificent dinner. (From left to right: Sommelier Natale Sicignano, Chef Montefusco, myself, Maitre d’ Giuseppe Sorrentino and, in the foreground, hotel manager Tiziana Laterza.)
Four tasting menus are offered (priced from 135€ to 180€) and the friendly waiter Danilo brought to my table dishes from all four. I began gently with lovely red mullet, with marinated red onions, green beans and a tortiera sauce. Then it was a plate of the finest gnocchi “Sorrento style” with tomato, mozzarella, basil and parmesan. This was followed by another dish infused with the finest tomatoes, aubergine Parmigiana, called by the Chef “From my mother to me” because it is based on his parent’s recipe. It made clear whence comes the cooking talent. My meat was succulent lamb shoulder, with carrots and black garlic. And I finished in fine style with “Neapolitan Diplomatica” - mille-feuille pastry with Chantilly cream and Alchermes liqueur. This was a meal to remember.
Like all truly great restaurants the Terrazza Bosquet has a great cellar. Most of the offerings are from Italy and France, although there are interesting bottles from Germany and elsewhere. Two large volumes, one for reds and one for whites, comprise the list. Prices run from 50€ to 4,200€ for 2000 Krug champagne (Blanc de noir Clos d’Ambonnay) and to 15,000€ for a 2020 red burgundy ( La Romanée,
Comte Liger-Belair). Grand clarets appear (like 2016 Lafite for 2,700€ and 2019 Pétrus for 11,000€) and lovers of super-Tuscans will be pleased to see 10 vintages of Sassicaia, with the 1999 at 900€. Natale poured into the Riedel glasses wines he had chosen precisely for my palate: the ever reliable full-bodied chardonnay from Umbria (2019 Cervaro della Sala, Antinori), an elegant red from Campania (2018 Campi Flegrei Piedirosso, Vigna delle Volpi, Agnanum) and a grand barbera d’Asti from Piedmont (2014 Bricco dell’Uccellone, Braida). This was lovely drinking.
Breakfast at the Excelsior Vittoria I found a special treat, for it was in the lovely Vittoria Room, a grand chamber with painted ceilings. But there was more, for a lady played melodies on a grand piano, and there are few more pleasing experiences than breaking the fast to the sound of good music, properly performed. The lady was Paola Ferola, who won my gratitude by playing ‘As time goes by’ several times at my request. I bring you a picture of her with myself and the maitre d’ of the breakfast room, Baldo di Lieto, who looked after me so well
during my visit.
Here I happily tucked into the comestibles: excellent brioche with the world’s best marmalade, pineapple, melon, strawberries, raspberries, Corn Flakes, bacon, mushrooms and slices of delicious fruit tart. All these were from the buffet table. In addition, waiters in white jackets brought to me pots of coffee, dishes of ice cubes, glasses of freshly squeezed orange juice and each morning’s concluding
cappuccino. This was a most civilised way in which to start each day.
Indeed, that might be the word to sum up this beautiful hotel – civilised. It is a bastion of traditional luxury, with a magnificent location, a delightful manager, a fine staff and a brilliant chef. No wonder we British do not love just Sorrento. We also love the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria.
Piazza Tasso 34, 80067 Sorrento, Italy.
Telephone +39 081 877 7111
Fax +39 081 877 1206
Email: info@exvitt.it
Check the hotel website for the rates for specific dates