contact: info@bownsbest.com
contact: info@bownsbest.com
PLEASE NOTE: THERE IS NOW A DIFFERENT CHEF AT THIS HOTEL
Famous hotels have their own personalities. The Gritti Palace in Venice has the gentle kindness of the true aristocrat. She knows people adore her, and she takes that adoration as her due. She embodies the grandeur, the beauty and the style of La Serenissima. Small wonder, then, that I have loved the Gritti Palace for many, many years. Indeed, it has long been my belief that there is only one thing better than arriving in Venice, and that is arriving in Venice when you know you are staying at The Gritti. The welcome I received on my recent visit was still as warm as ever – and as genuine as the fine pieces of antique furniture which decorate its sumptuous salons.
From her terraces guests can enjoy views of the Grand Canal, the most beautiful and admired waterway in the world. And the views are not of just any part of the Grand Canal. On the other side of the water is the church of Santa Maria della Salute, one of the visual gems of the city and the masterpiece of Baldassare Longhena. The church was built between 1631 and 1681, in thanksgiving for the deliverance
of Venice from the plague, and it still sends the heart soaring heavenwards. Each morning the bell sounds, summoning the faithful to “Mass at the Salute”.
More than a century before the Salute was begun, the Doge of Venice, Andrea Gritti, chose this spot for his palace. Now it offers its hospitality to visitors. As you will have gathered, the rooms at the Gritti are superb. They include, for those of you who like to entertain, the Penthouse Suite – which I have inspected – with a spiral staircase, leading to a huge terrace which can accommodate 250 guests.
The grandest apartments overlook the Grand Canal. But one should not neglect the rooms which overlook the campo Santa Maria Giglio, for they share the levels of comfort and luxury which is the Gritti Style. I occupied one of them on the second floor. Number 220 was a “Prestige Giglio” (pictured - check the hotel website for the rates for specific dates). It boasted high ceilings and a proper hallway with
mirrored doors to its wardrobes. In my spacious bedroom the bed was supremely comfortable, a feature which becomes more and more important to me as the years pass. Lighting was from a six branch crystal chandelier, table lamps and crystal wall brackets. Mirrors in elaborate gilt frames adorned the silk-clad walls and the furniture included a slope-front bureau and a writing table. And the bathroom was as all bathrooms should be: ravishing. Half a quarry of grey and white marble must have been used in its creation. Ablutions are important, so I appreciated these surroundings as I soaked in the proper bath, used the separate shower or washed in one of the basins. Acqua di Parma toiletries were provided. One of the potions put out for me was ‘anti-ageing cream’. I hope it has been efficacious.
Members of staff at the Gritti (many of whom have been at the hotel for decades) are a credit to the hotel’s famous General Manager, Paolo Lorenzoni (pictured). He is a model of discretion and efficiency and ensures that his (often famous) guests are looked after in the appropriate manner.
The dining room at the Gritti is on the ground floor and is called the Club del Doge. Within, it has a floor of marble, paintings of food and wall lights of crystal. And when the weather is warm, there is the lure of the terrace, from which diners can enjoy the view across the water. Aware of the evening chill, I sat within. The kitchen at the Gritti is the domain of a fine Executive Chef, Daniele Turco (pictured), who is both talented and engaging. Having worked in Malta, Sicily and Istanbul, Mr Turco is full of enthusiasm for his craft. Indeed, he has conducted cookery schools at the hotel, to impart his skills to guests. (Ask for details of future dates and prices.)
My dinner, at which I was looked after by 2nd Maitre, Nicola, was an occasion marked by white napery, Bernardau crockery, Spiegelau glassware and silver domes. It began with a softly poached egg with sweetbreads and a confit of shallots - light, delicate and subtle. Then it was a bowl of tiny onion-filled ravioli, brought magically to life by the pouring of a thrilling port consommé. More port came in the gel
with pink duck breast, and then I finished with wonderful Tulakalum chocolate and coconut cream. (Allow around 150€ for four courses.)
Most of the 240 offerings on the wine list are Italian, although there are also some lovely champagnes and clarets to tempt the Francophile. Prices run from 50€ for a local pinot grigio to 3,100€ for 2002 Dom Pérignon rosé champagne. Other bottles to catch my eye were: Sassicaia 2014 (490€), Masseto 2013 (1,800€), 2011 Latour (2,400€), 2018 Tignanello (295€) and my favourite Italian bubbly, the Anna Maria Clementi franciacorta, Ca’del Bosco (2010 – 275€). I went to Tuscany for my red, the well-regarded Capannelle, in its 2011 vintage (210€)- a smooth wine of medium weight, gentle tannins and (surprisingly) red fruit.
I returned to the Club del Doge early each day, where – looked after exceptionally well by Enrico, the Restaurant Manager, and surrounded by silver coffee pots and fine linen – I tucked into morning comestibles of the highest quality. Mushrooms on toast, buckets of ice cubes, jugs of fresh orange juice and my concluding cappuccini were brought from the kitchen. Dishes of pineapple, melon, raspberries and strawberries, bowls of Corn Flakes, plates of cheese and ham and slices of indulgent cakes, I secured from the buffet.
I loved these breakfasts. And I loved, once more, my whole experience of staying at this renowned establishment. Its fascinating personality will tempt you back whenever you visit Venice. The Gritti Palace is one of the world’s great hotels.
Campo Santa Maria del Giglio 2467, San Marco, Venice 30124, Italy.
Telephone +39 041 794 611
Fax +39 041 520 0942
Email: grittipalace@luxurycollection.com
Check the room rates for specific dates (breakfast is 53€)
Enquire about special offers