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Back to reviews in Italy
Italy is blessed with many beautiful little towns. Sestri Levante, on the Ligurian Coast, is one of the most delightful. You can picture it by thinking of a larger version of Portofino. Its proximity to the A12 motorway means that it is readily accessible to those of us who like to motor in France and in Italy near the Mediterranean. Having found it, I am slightly shocked that my discovery of its charms was not made decades ago. The prettiness of the seaside setting is enhanced by the discreet symmetry of the architecture. Colourful harmony is all around. 
This is a place one likes immediately – once one has negotiated the highways of the modern town and reached the quaint streets and promenades of the Old Town. And looking out over and above this gorgeous scene is a charming hostelry, the Hotel Vis à Vis.
The founder of the establishment was Giacomo de Nicolai. His portrait (pictured) adorns the entrance hall. Mr de Nicolai was fascinated by the great luxury liners which used to cross the Atlantic, taking the cream of European society to the New World. Therefore, when the opportunity arose for him to erect his own hotel to his own design, on a splendid vantage point high above Sestri Levante, he determined that the building should be “a ship on the mainland”. The floors would be ‘decks’, and the interior decor would remind the guests of those liners he loved. This was in 1961. Now, the hotel is owned and managed by his charming grandson, Nicolò Mori (pictured, with your correspondent), who is careful to maintain the standards and ambiance of his remarkable grandfather.
Of course, in one respect, those standards are easy to maintain, for the magical views have not changed. They still gladden the heart. But an hotel is more than views, and the Vis à Vis has many other features to commend it to the discerning traveller. The high position might suggest that it is hard to reach the historical centre of Sestri Levante. But not at all: the hotel has a lift which whizzes one down to just a few steps away from the heart of things. I used this often, and even my aged legs took me in no time to the water’s edge.
I had a peep at some of the lovely new bedrooms, which are full of light and are decorated with flair and elegance. But, sadly, my ailing back requires hot baths and these apartments have large showers instead of tubs, so I had to leave them for fitter guests. My own (air-conditioned) apartment was number 109 – a Junior Suite, and therefore 310€-390€ a night, bed and breakfast for two, according to season. Its colour scheme included white (for the walls), brown (for the woodwork) and gold (for the curtains and the upholstery). As on a ship, a lot was packed into a little, although well-placed mirrors helped to increase the sense of space. The sitting room was triangular and contained a sofa. Beyond its sliding window was a balcony, from which I could survey the port below and the bay beyond. In the bedroom were fitted wardrobes and a safe, as well as a second sliding window to a second balcony (with a view over the modern town).
I dined in the hotel restaurant on the fourth floor, the Ristorante Olimpo. Here the view was once more dominant, but the dark blue tablecloths, the polished cutlery, the good glassware and the dark blue, tapered candles in their silver candlesticks created a proper sense of serious culinary endeavour. Here I was looked after very well by the Maitre d’ Valentino and the Sommelier Nicola (pictured).
The cuisine of the Chef, Ruggero, is straightforward and full of flavour, and the size of his dishes is generous. I began with a trio of fried mushrooms, which went very well indeed with half a bottle of elegant franciacorta by Bellavista. (I become an ever more ardent fan of franciacorta, a bubbly which I find always completely reliable.) I then made a special request for fillet of beef with chips, and the dish was magnificent is every respect – the meat tender and succulent, the chips crisp without and fluffy within. I finished with a refreshing mango parfait. (Expect to pay around 80€ for such a dinner.) The splendid red wine with the beef was recommended by Nicola. This merlot from Tuscany possessed an intoxicating nose of black fruit and was robust and full-bodied in the mouth (La Ricolma, San Giusto a Rentennano, 2014 – 85€).
The wine list has 171 offerings. All, except the champagnes, are Italian. Prices are friendly, running from 21€ for a local white to 280€ for 2007 Cristal champagne. Other bottles to catch my eye were: Krug Grande Cuvée (270€), 2011 Gaja barbaresco (200€), 2014 Sassicaia (270€), 2011 Tignanello (180€) and 2015 Cervaro della Sala (70€).
While you are at Vis à Vis, you should follow my example and pay a visit to the other restaurant owned by the family – the Ristorante Portobello, right by the water’s edge in the smaller of the town’s two ports. The setting, outside on the terrace, is enchanting. The wine list is the same as that at the hotel. The food is brought to the table by young chaps in sailors’ (or pirates’?) costumes.
My armchair had been covered with soft cushions to accommodate my wretched back, a kindness which I much appreciated – as I did the carefully cooked dishes which were set before me. Fish is the speciality, as you would expect, and I tucked into a lobster risotto and seared scallops with wonderful sautéed porcini mushrooms. But I could not completely suppress my carnivore tendencies, so I then devoured more fillet of beef (this time set off with an escalope of foie gras) before ending my meal with the most delicious warm spiced apple cake with cinnamon ice cream. My drinking included a well-made local red, a blend of sangiovese, merlot and local grapes – Niccolò V da Sarzana, Colli di Luna, Riserva, 2012.
Back at the hotel, the breaking of the morning fast provided me with another example of Mr Mori’s determination constantly to improve his establishment. On my previous visit I had expressed my disappointment that the napkins at breakfast were of the paper sort. Now they had gone – replaced by the proper linen variety. Bravo!
Of course, it remains difficult to concentrate on breakfast with the view providing such a captivating distraction. Still, I did manage to survey the buffet to some serious purpose, taking to my table comestibles of high quality – most notably, slices of madeira cake, croissants, pain aux raisins and dishes of lovely marinated fruits. From the kitchen were brought to me onion omelettes, freshly-squeezed orange juice, silver pots of coffee and plates of the finest Parma ham.
Italy is blessed to have Sestri Levante. And Sestri Levante is blessed to have the Hotel Vis à Vis. Its wonderful location, pleasant staff and enthusiastic owner make it an establishment I am very happy to recommend.
Via della Chiusa 28, 16039 Sestri Levante – Genoa, Italy.
Telephone +39 0185 42661/48081
Fax +39 0185 480853
Email: visavis@hotelvisavis.com
www.hotelvisavis.com
Double rooms from 110€-225€, according to season
See the hotel website for special offers and for the rates for specific dates
