ITALY
CAPRI
RISTORANTE LA CAPANNINA

Ristorante La Capannina, Capri, Italy | Bown's Best

There is something quite enchanting about the Ristorante La Capannina. I think it is the combination of its location (in one of the narrow streets off the Piazetta), its service (genuinely friendly, as family-run establishments so often are) and its food (truly traditional and full of flavour). Indeed, I would say that the restaurant embodies the charm of Capri. It is the ristorante Caprese par excellence. I would
advise anyone visiting this island magnet for the rich and beautiful to have at least one meal at La Capannina.

Who can resist Capri? Even the bustle and the noise of the day-trippers who travel from Sorrento and pack the Marina Grande and Capri town until the last ferry leaves in the early evening somehow add to the sense that one is on the set of an exciting new film. But, of course, I like it even better when the crowds have gone and the elegant thoroughfares are left to the residents and to those of us who are
staying in the hotels. Then there is the particular pleasure of walking past the jewellers’ shops and the clothing boutiques on the way to a really good dinner. And I know that is what awaits me, when I am heading for La Capaninna. It is easy to get lost in these little streets. But anyone who knows Capri well will direct you to this famous dining room near the town’s main square. Everyone has been there - including Jacqueline Onassis, Dustin Hoffman and José Carreras. Yet it has the appearance of being a hidden gem. 

Mr De Angelis with Francis Bown, Ristorante La Capannina, Capri, Italy | Bown's Best

La Capannina means ‘the little house’, so that is what to look for in the maze of alleys which runs from the Piazzetta. What you will find is a small door by a window. Inside you will see that the tables have been carefully set with beige tablecloths and fine glasses (by Bormioli, Zafferano and Riedel), and that the smartly dressed staff is ready for the evening’s customers. The appearance is that of a very good and thoroughly traditional Italian restaurant – which is as well, because that is precisely what La Capannina is.

The greeting on this visit was as it always is, courteous and discreet, for Mr De Angelis (pictured, with your correspondent) is a real gentleman. He and his family - Aurelia, Francesco, Renata, Andrea and Piero - know how to run a proper establishment. I settled myself comfortably on the banquette at my usual corner table in the upper dining room (there is a larger, lower one, too, but I prefer the
smaller space), and knew I was in for a good evening. 

Antonio De Agelis’s father, Francesco, was the chef at the Quisisana Hotel [see separate article] until 1929. Two years later, in 1931, he opened his restaurant near the Piazzetta, which soon started to enjoy the patronage of the writers who were beginning to flock to Capri – people like Graham Greene.

You will know when you look at the available wines that this is no run-of-the-mill trattoria - indeed the restaurant has its own wine shop nearby. The pages of the wine list contain some very grand bottles. Prices run from a modest sum for the house white or red to 3,200€ for the 2015 vintage of the famous super-Tuscan, Masseto. Other great names to tempt the wine lover include Sassicaia (the 2015 is
1,800€), Solaia (2010 - 1,000€) Tignanello (2011 - 350€) and, of course, Angelo Gaja (his 2008 barbaresco is 480€). On this visit I quaffed local wines: a pleasantly fruity Falanghina and a good bottle of robust red, an Aglianico by Beneventano.

The food cooked by Chef Filippo Rispoli is entirely right. Chef Rispoli has manned the stoves here for thirty years and he knows his business. He takes fine ingredients and cooks them simply and expertly. The resulting dishes are full of tastes which are clear and direct. Fish-lovers are well served, but so also are we carnivores. I began with ravioli alla Caprese - a dish which was as delicious as it was large, and it was very large. There are so many disappointing versions of this dish: it was a relief to return to one which spoke so clearly of culinary excellence. Next was grilled fillet of beef. It looked like an ordinary dish, but the beef was of such high quality and so tasty, and the onions and roasted potatoes were so appealing, that it is still clear in my memory. I ended with a super example of a crème caramel. This was a really enjoyable dinner of classic dishes. (Allow around 60€-75€ for three courses.)

So here is the enchantment of a great family-run Italian restaurant on the magical island of Capri. Seek out La Capannina. You will not be disappointed.

Ristorante La Capannina, Capri, Italy | Bown's Best
Ristorante La Capannina, Capri, Italy | Bown's Best

ADDRESS

LA CAPANNINA

Via Le Botteghe 12bis/14, 80073 Capri, Italy.
Telephone +39 081 837 0732
Email: capannina@capri.it

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