contact: info@bownsbest.com
contact: info@bownsbest.com
Gourmets travelling to Sorrento should have on their list of desirable dining experiences a visit to the Ristorante Don Geppi. Still quite new, it already has one Michelin star, and the enthusiasm and ability of all those involved in this splendid enterprise will surely mean that its well-deserved accolades multiply over time. Here you will find exquisite food, expertly chosen wines and service which is impeccably proper. An evening here will therefore gladden your heart and raise your spirits. But before I speak further of this wonderful room, allow me to comment upon the hotel in which it is located.
Sant’ Agnello is immediately outside Sorrento, on the way to Naples. Lots of motor cars pass straight through, but travellers in a hurry might easily miss a treat, for Sant’Agnello possesses a remarkable viewing platform from which it is possible to look not only down at the sea, but also back along the coastline to the cliff-top hotels of its larger neighbour. A short walk from this remarkable facility, and nestling in its own verdant gardens, is the four-star Majestic Palace Hotel.
Here you will be greeted by smiling and obliging members of staff. I found that, throughout my stay, nothing was too much trouble for these courteous ladies and gentlemen. (If only more hotels could be encouraged to embrace the positive and cast aside the negative. Was it not the great César Ritz who told his employees that they must never say ‘No’ to a guest?) Moreover, the entire place is so pristine, so elegant and so obviously well cared-for. It is family owned and family run, and that shows.
After my own arrival, I was soon on the top (5th) floor, in room number 502, the Vesuvio Suite. This was decorated in a modern style, with flooring of grey slate, and walls of brilliant white. In the sitting room was a glass desk, a crystal chandelier and a sofa in red velvet. A dressing area, with hanging space and a safe – between the sitting room and the bedroom – gave onto the bathroom, with a walk-in shower, one wash basin, a loo and a bidet. Through the two French windows was my own large terrace. This was covered with artificial turf, and boasted potted palms, as well as chairs, a table and loungers. From here I had an impressive panorama, taking in the rooftops of the town, the mountains and, of course, the distant sea. Also on the top floor is The Martini Bar, an elegant essay in white which allows patrons to enjoy cocktails al fesco.
From my pleasant billet I went down to the ground floor for my first dinner at the hotel’s larger dining room, the Magnolia Restaurant. This is a pleasant, light space with a marble floor and a central stone pillar. Here the cooking is good, the staff are friendly and a good time is had by all. I certainly enjoyed my three courses (ravioli with ricotta cheese and cherry tomatoes, beef steak with rocket and cheesecake with berries), washed down with a very quaffable primitivo from Puglia ( Qvid, 2020 - 32€).
My next dinner was at the gastronomic shrine, the Ristorante Don Geppi, which seats just twelve guests. Also on the ground floor, this is an exquisite chamber. Through its window I could see the orange trees in the garden. From its high ceiling twinkled a chandelier of Murano crystal. On its large tables was crisp napery of finest white damask. The sparkling glassware was by Zafferano. The painted walls gave the impression one was in the formal garden of a very grand country house.
The three guiding persons behind this impressive establishment are Giulia Rossano (the owner and an architect, whose work is evident throughout the hotel), Lucio d’Orsi (who controls the front of house and the wine cellar and is Giulia’s husband) and Chef Mario Affinita. Giulia is pictured with your correspondent and the fantastical cake which was made to celebrate the award of the Michelin star in 2015.
Three set menus are offered, at 130€, 140€ and 150€, named Mare, Terra and Espressioni, with wine pairings for 65€, 70€ and 80€. I had Terra with the addition of the foie gras course from Espressioni. Chef Affinita’s food is La Cuisine Trompe L’Oeile, for every dish has an appearance quite different from its real nature. This requires an enormous amount of work in the kitchen, and can result in some delightful surprises when the delicacies enter one’s mouth.
I began with onions, truffle and Parmesan, looking like a risotto, which was a masterpiece of flavoured subtlety. Then it was truly superb goose foie gras, in the form of leaves, with annurca apple and lemon. After this came the real risotto - but no, it was not a risotto but risone pasta with lemon and thyme. My meat course was outrageously rich duck à la Royale with apricot compote. And finally there was divine Caprese cake.
Lucio d’Orsi has constructed a substantial wine list of 511 offerings. Most of them are Italian, but France is well represented, as is the New World. And it cheered my heart to see a decent showing from Germany (a country too often neglected in the best cellars). The most remarkable and pleasing aspect of the list is its price structure. Over 40% of the bottles are under 50€. In my experience this is unique for a Michelin-starred restaurant. Guided by Mr d’Orsi, the charming sommelière Elisa, poured into my glasses champagnes, chardonnays, rieslings, robust reds and shimmering sweets. You will drink very well at the Majestic Palace.
Breakfast in the mornings was back in the hotel’s large main dining room, where the efficient waiting staff looked after me very well. I will recommend particularly the bacon, the tomatoes and the croissants - all super. A buffet is provided – with fresh fruit, cheese, boiled eggs and several hot dishes, and a menu offers all sorts of tasty options.
The Sorrentine Peninsula is rightly popular with those who love beautiful scenery. The Majestic Palace Hotel will provide you with comfortable accommodation, lovely gardens and a deservedly famous restaurant. Do not miss it.
40 corso Marion Crawford, 80065 Sant’Agnello di Sorrento, Italy.
Telephone +39 081 807 20 50
Email: concierge@majesticpalace.it
See the hotel website for the room rates for specific dates.
RISTORANTE DON GEPPI
Open for dinner only
Closed: Tuesdays
Open April – October