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Back to reviews in United States
The Mandarin Oriental in San Francisco is undoubtedly one of the best hotels in the world. Its rooms and its views are wonderful. Then there are those details which mean so much to me – like the folder on my desk, with several sheets of writing paper, printed with the legend ‘Francis Bown In Residence’, and the pillow on my bed, embroidered with a ‘B’, in honour of my family name. And the tireless commitment of the staff is second-to-none: a hot towel was brought to me at breakfast, when it was noticed that I had soiled my fingers with print from my morning newspaper, and the Assistant Food & Beverage Manager (Johnny Ayala) himself carried an armchair up from the ground floor, when I wondered whether the chairs in the first-floor restaurant would be good for my back. You will understand that I would now find it difficult to contemplate a visit to the city of St Francis without the prospect of staying at the Mandarin Oriental.
As soon as I entered the hotel lobby, everyone seemed to know my name and take pleasure in using it. Indeed, friendliness and efficiency marked each member of staff I encountered during my stay. Clearly, the General Manager, Clifford Atkinson (pictured) is doing a fine job. These initial salutations were, of course, on the ground floor, an area of sparkling marble and gleaming wood. But the greater part of the hotel is way above, on the top eleven floors of San Francisco’s third tallest skyscraper. We are here in the city’s Financial District, an area which has much of the impressive verticality of downtown New York. (Do not think, however, that this is a district without art. Just across the street, I went up to the 10th floor of what used to be the Stock Exchange to see, next to an Art Déco staircase, one of the masterpieces of 20th century painting – Diego Rivera’s mural, Allegory of California [pictured].)
An express lift whizzed me up to the 48th floor of the hotel. (And I do mean ‘whizzed’. These machines travel at ear-popping speed.) And there was room 4811 (pictured) – a ‘Bridge to Bridge’ corner room and therefore $360-$620 a night for two, breakfast extra, according to season. The name relates to the astonishing panorama, which takes in both the Golden Gate and Oakland bridges. All the rooms at the Mandarin have lovely views, because of the enormous height of the building. Even some of the bathrooms – attached to the ‘Mandarin King’ and ‘Golden Gate’ rooms – share this privilege, which is a special joy for those of us who tend to linger over our ablutions. The bathroom to 4811 did not, but I still liked its red marble, walk-in shower, decent tub and those two simple items I always want but do not always find, a washing line and a clock. 
The bedroom’s colour scheme of red and gold was welcoming, and its lighting – from a mixture of table lamps and spotlights – enabled me to create exactly the right atmosphere. I could thus sit on the sofa, next to a table with legs in the form of eagles’ heads, and relax, as the cd player brought me the strains of Mozart. This machine was but one of the many technological delights available. Most of them were beyond my understanding. I wondered what an “ipod docking system” might be. But I could cope with some of the offerings: the very efficient air conditioning system, the iron and ironing board, the large flat television and the pair of binoculars. And, when I was done playing with these, there was always the lovely bed – made extra soft at my request – for my afternoon doze.
Both my breakfasts and dinner were consumed in the Silks Restaurant (pictured), on the 2nd floor, where Johnny Ayala, the aforementioned Assistant Food & Beverage Manager, looked after me with exemplary enthusiasm. The décor – by Cheryl Rowley – was inspired by the journey of Marco Polo to the court of Kubla Khan. I found it discreetly elegant. For dinner, I wondered whether to sit in one of the booths, on a banquette, but my back demanded an armchair and a cushion. (And this is when Mr Ayala rushed off on his errand of mercy, for the chairs normally provided are without arms.) Thus settled, I appreciated this chamber with its off-white tablecloths and fine Spiegelau glassware, in which the napkins were replaced when diners left the table for a moment.
Executive Chef Rick Bartram (an Englishman, from Sunderland) offers a five course menu for $85. I chose four courses for $70, brought to me by my waiter, Jonathan. Heirloom tomato and peach salad, with watercress and Szechuan peppercorn dressing was refreshing and well-balanced. Rillette of Sonoma rabbit with vanilla gelée was meaty and carefully executed.
Then came the high point of the meal – tasty and tender saddle of lamb, served with almond and apricot couscous. The flavours here were spot on. I finished, as I like to do, with a soufflé – this one a blackberry-cabernet with frosted grapes and peach sorbet. This was well-presented and enjoyable food.
Wine Director (and Food & Beverage Manager) Nicole Kosta presides over a list which spans the world, and includes German riesling and Australian shiraz. Prices for its 700 bottles run from $22 for a Mendocino rosé to $2,600 for 1983 Haut Brion. (The latter is slightly surprising, given that the 1979 Latour is only $990.) The following bottles caught my eye: 1987 Duckhorn merlot ($250), 2004 Opus One ($370), 2004 Grange ($795), 2006 La Tâche ($2,020) and 2000 Dom Pérignon ($300). The charming and knowledgeable Sommelière, Priscilla Young, recommended a brilliant cabernet from Knights Valley, which turned out to be a fascinating voyage of discovery in the World of the Blackcurrant (Anakota, 2003 - $122).
There is no buffet at breakfast, which is served in the Silks Restaurant. All is brought to the table. Depending upon your appetite, the cost is likely to be $35-$50. My fresh orange juice came in a carafe and my Earl Grey tea was in an attractive porcelain pot. The crockery was white and by Bernardaud. All was therefore as it should have been. The window coverings have recently been changed, so that now more light comes in from the outside, which is a big improvement at breakfast-time. In these thoroughly civilized surroundings, I tucked into All Bran with sliced banana, fresh berries, mushrooms on toast and excellent croissants. The service was smooth, unhurried and professional. And that, after all, is what we expect at one of the best hotels in the world.
222 Sansome Street (between Pine and California), San Francisco, California 94104, U.S.A.
Telephone +1 415 276 9888
Fax +1 415 433 0289
Email: reserve-mosf@mohg.com
www.mandarinoriental.com
Double rooms from $295-$495, according to season, breakfast extra.
Check rates on the internet, and ask about special offers.
