ITALY

ITALIAN LAKES

COMO

PALACE HOTEL

Palace Hotel, Como, Italian Lakes, Italy | Bown's Best There are many reasons to visit Como. It is famous for the production of fine silk, and it also boasts a magnificent cathedral, a renowned opera house, a beautifully preserved historical centre and an important collection of modernist buildings. But, of course, what attracts most visitors is its location on the lake to which it gives its name. To stay in this charming city, you will need a charming hotel. And I have one for you, looking straight at Lake Como and within easy walking distance of all the sights. It is the Palace.

The hotel inhabits two buildings which form a right angle: the Palazzo Plinius, designed in the 19th Century by Federico Frigerio, and the more modern Pianella wing. We are here in the land of the four-star hostelry, so the Palace does not offer all the opulence of the five-star deluxe establishments to which the readers of Bown’s Best will be accustomed. Even so, this is a well-run and very comfortable place in which to stay, and it has what is very scarce in the city: parking for your motor car. (On my recent visit a fellow guest arrived in an elderly Jaguar, which made me regret that I was not in my even more elderly Rolls-Royce. But she has to stay in Blighty nowadays.)

Palace Hotel, Como, Italian Lakes, Italy | Bown's Best My billet was a ‘Superior’ (250€-520€, bed and breakfast, according to season) in the newly renovated Pianella wing. Room 142 on the first floor was pristine in white, grey and light brown – the last colour supplied by the wood-block floor. There was plenty of space for a sofa, chairs and a writing desk. A French window opened onto a balcony overlooking the hotel garden. Lighting was from spotlights, table lamps and wall lights. In the large bathroom the stylish fittings were by Duravit, and included a properly-sized bath, a separate shower, a loo, a bidet and one wash basin. I liked the clever use of mirrors around the window, which gave a pleasingly Baroque effect.

Members of staff throughout the hotel are both courteous and helpful – a tribute to the excellent General Manager, Robert Anthony Webber – pictured, with your correspondent. Mr Webber was brought up in Leeds, and we know that the people of Yorkshire are famous for their hospitality. He also manages the nearby Hotel Barchetta Excelsior, to which I walked for dinner one evening (see below).

Palace Hotel, Como, Italian Lakes, Italy | Bown's Best At the Palace I dined in the hotel’s restaurant, called the Antica Darsena (the name means ‘Ancient Dock’). With proper damask napery, good glassware by C & S and the attentive service of 2nd maitre d’ Christian, this was a pleasant environment in which to enjoy the tasty cuisine of Chef Ercole Sandionigi. I began with a terrine of pike with garlic, served with a salad of celery and apple. This was followed by excellent rack of lamb – cooked pink, of course – with an appropriate sauce of grain mustard and some fine roast potatoes. I finished with a bit of theatre: crêpes Suzette, prepared next to the table by Christian.(These courses were 88€.)

The wine list has just 47 offerings, but they are keenly priced. All are Italian, except the champagnes. Prices run from 20€ for a red from Franciacorta to 79€ for Perrier Jouet champagne. I enjoyed a babaresco, still tannic and young, but laden with red fruit (Albino Rocca, 2016 – 45€).

Each morning I breakfasted in the hotel’s Magna Hall, a pretty room in the Classical style, which was decked out with gilt-framed mirrors, crystal chandeliers, properly clothed tables and paintings of unclothed ladies. These last seemed to be enjoying the fresh air in the Italian countryside. Had they been present ‘in the flesh’, I am sure they would also have enjoyed, as I did, the wonderful orange marmalade and the mushroom omelettes which the kindly waitress brought to my table. I also took from the buffet plates of melon, pineapple, bacon, cheese and crusty bread.

Palace Hotel, Como, Italian Lakes, Italy | Bown's Best On one evening I undertook the short walk to the piazza Cavour to the Palace’s sister hotel, the Barchetta Excelsior. At its Bistro I was looked after over dinner with great friendliness by Andrea and Rose. Chef Christian Babuin sends out into this modern, warmly decorated, ground floor room generous dishes of well-cooked food. A strudel with vegetables and goat’s cheese with red turnip sauce was tasty and carefully executed. My main course of sliced sirloin of beef was also enjoyable, and the chips which came with it were superb. I love chips when they are well done and I hate them when they are badly done. Here I was a happy man. These high standards continued with some delicious fruit crumble, with pear, apple and chestnuts. Together with its vanilla ice cream with cinnamon, this concluded a satisfying meal. (Allow around 50€ for three such courses.)

60 offerings make up the wine list, with prices running from 20€ for a Sicilian chardonnay to 120€ for a Barolo from Michele Chiarlo. I quaffed a yeasty, full-bodied, sparkling Franciacorta (Ferghettina – 20€, half) and a Taurasi with a rich depth of black fruit (Vinosia, 2014 – 32€).

Walking back in the warm evening, there was no doubt in my mind. The charming city of Como is most certainly worth a visit – and so is the charming Palace Hotel.

ITALY

ITALIAN LAKES

COMO

PALACE HOTEL

ADDRESSES

PALACE HOTEL