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Back to reviews in France & Monaco
Wonderful. Let me use the epithet again: wonderful. It is the word which comes most readily to my mind when I think of the Hotel Plaza Athénée in Paris. Some hotels dazzle with their extravagance, some startle with their modernity and some seduce with their naughtiness. The Plaza Athénée exists in a realm above such frivolities, where there is no vulgar striving but one gentle harmony – where things are right and rightly done. It is a place for those who appreciate the fine things of life and need to be surrounded by elegance and service which is correct, attentive but never overbearing. Of course, the Plaza Athénée has one of the great hotel managers, Mr François Delahaye (pictured). This suave and impeccably dressed gentleman (once the butler to the Duke of Westminster) has presided over the establishment for over twenty years. He ensures that it is, without doubt, one of the best hotels in the world.
Opened in 1911, the hotel occupies eight floors, built around a courtyard of Virginia creepers, wrought iron balconies and bright red blinds. As soon as I entered, I felt at home, embraced by the luxurious confection of bronze, gold, silk, velvet and Lalique crystal. I looked up at the high capitals of the 8 marble columns in the entrance hall and purred with pleasure at the exuberance and fun of their Art Déco forms. We are in the middle of the avenue Montaigne, the epicentre of Parisian haute couture. In this noble pile, 500 employees work to satisfy the needs of those who occupy its 188 rooms. Most of those rooms are decorated in the elegant French style of the 18th century. But the top two floors offer the delights of Art Déco.
My own accommodation was a Deluxe Suite (pictured) on the 5th floor (from 2,500€ a night). This was exactly the sort of apartment I would wish to have in the French capital – spacious, light and comfortable and full of pieces of art and furniture I could have chosen myself. Tones of white and grey provided a setting both sophisticated and restful. My drawing room, with views over the inner courtyard, was utterly quiet, and was blessed with a marble fireplace, charming wall lights and a crystal chandelier. Its television was concealed behind a mirror. Here I could sit to deal with my correspondence at a desk in the Louis XVI style or perhaps relax within the velvet cushions of the sofa or on one of the fauteuils upholstered in pink silk. In the bedroom was another chandelier of crystal, plenty of hanging space (and a safe) behind mirrored doors and a bed of substantial size and considerable comfort. My bathroom was a chamber of veined white marble, with a bath of proper size, a separate shower, two wash basins and a separate loo. Toiletries were by Guerlain, “Eau Impériale”.
There is seriously good eating to be done at the Plaza Athénée. Alain Ducasse has one of his Michelin three-star restaurants in the hotel. But for dinner I went instead to the Art Déco dining room on the ground floor, Le Relais Plaza (pictured). This is also overseen by Monsieur Ducasse, so the culinary standards are high. And so, too, are the standards of service, for the famous maitre d’ Werner Küchler is in charge.
Sitting on a leather banquette, surrounded by mirrors, stained glass and delightful examples of Art Déco, I found myself totally charmed by the environment. The glassware was good, the napery was white, a pianist tinkled and waiters in dark suits were careful to replace the napkins of those who momentarily left their seats. This is a place, I thought, for an enjoyable evening of good, hearty food. And that is precisely what I got.
Chef Philippe Marc (here since 2000) commands a most capable kitchen. I was impressed by both the taste and the size of my black truffle risotto. It occurred to me that this was the sort of dish one should always eat on a visit to Paris. Next came a large piece of Angus beef, with a Bordeaux sauce and seared chanterelle mushrooms. Delicious. And I was equally impressed by the pudding from Angelo Musa: a well realised chestnut soufflé with Armagnac ice cream. (These three courses were 150€.)
The wine list has 233 (mostly French) offerings, running in price from a white southern Rhône at 40€ to 2002 Pétrus at 5,000€. Other bottles to catch my eye were: 2000 Haut Brion (2,520€), 2012 Grange des Pères (300€) and 1996 Yquem (1,100€). I quaffed a 2016 Côte Rôtie, which needed its decanting, but which then revealed its intense black fruit and bright spiciness (Jasmin, La Giroflarie – 150€).
I breakfasted in the Restaurant Plaza Athénée (over which twinkle those three Michelin stars). This large classical chamber with fluted columns is now furnished in a striking modernist style (pictured). There is no buffet here, so the components of my ‘American’ breakfast (62€) were brought to my table by the courteous waiters: Granny Smith apple juice, fruit salad, baguettes, brioche, hot buttered toast, marmalade, warm croissants, poached eggs, bacon and tomatoes. I did not go hungry.
The Hotel Plaza Athénée represents the peak of French hospitality. Its standards are remarkable, and it has one of the great hotel managers. In short, it is, well...wonderful.
25 avenue Montaigne, Paris 75008, France.
Telephone +33 (0)1 87 16 44 60
Email: reservations.HPA@dorchestercollection.com
www.dorchestercollection.com
Double rooms from 935€, breakfast extra
