I love to find genuine enthusiasm in restaurants. And it is there in huge quantities at the Restaurant La Zagara. It is part of the Casa Mariantonia - a swish boutique hotel hidden deep in the heart of Anacapri. It took me a little concentration to find it, as I am not very good at navigating my way through unfamiliar streets, even when they are as pretty as those of Capri’s upper town. But I was so glad I
made the effort, for it gave me a most enjoyable evening.

This house was one of the first inns on the island. Its foundress, the eponymous Mariantonia, is said to have invented the alcoholic drink made from lemons – limoncello – and should therefore be regarded with enormous gratitude by everyone in this part of Italy. Now it is run, with flair and ability, by her trio of great-grandchildren – Pierpaolo, Marcello and Mariangela. They are doing great work and deserve great success.

The best way to appreciate this charming place is to sit at one of the tables in the lovely lemon grove, which is what I did. Here Restaurant Manager Beniamigo, and his staff – all smart in black – looked after me with courtesy and care, as I noted with approval the good glassware and the beige napery. 

Executive Chef Davide Ciavattella worked previously at the famous Capri Palace nearby. You can see him in the photograph with myself and Pierpaolo Pollio. Pierpaolo took me to see the impressive new kitchen. There the Chef uses fine ingredients to produce generously-sized dishes which yield pleasure to both the eye and the palate. His menu is short (as it should be) and appealing. A tasting menu of five courses is offered for 100€. I chose three courses from the carte, for which you should allow around 75€.

I began with beef tartare, enlivened with black truffle, asparagus and raspberry vinegar - an intelligent and well-balanced combination. My main course of rolled roast lamb was flavoured with Mediterranean herbs and served with aubergine and a basil and cheese fondue. I also had side dishes of onions and roasted potatoes - which actually made the quantity of food rather too much for me, such is the generosity of the kitchen. I finished with a truly excellent and indulgent “red passion” - strawberry Bavarian cream with basil mousse, cocoa and orange (for which the pastry chef, Serena di Valentino, deserves a most honourable mention).

The wine list is full of interest. Its 327 offerings are mostly Italian and French. Prices - which are friendly - run from 29€ for some local reds to 1,720€ for the 2013 vintage of Monfortino barolo riserva. Other bottles to catch my eye were: 2002 Dom Pérignon Prelude 2 (980€), 2011 Anna Maria Clementi Franciacorta, Ca’del Bosco (145€), 2015 Masseto (1,340€), 2015 Sassicaia (2,380€, magnum) and 2006 Latour (1,790€) There are 24 entries from Mr Gaja, including his 2010 barbaresco (380€). I remarked to the knowledgeable sommelier, Gianluca Federico, that there were no German sweet wines in the cellar, but his response suggested that there might well be some by the time of my next visit. He selected for me the 2012 vintage of the highly regarded Sanmarco from the Castello dei Rampolla (90€). This Tuscan blend of cabernet sauvignon (90%), merlot (5%) and sangiovese (5%) has prominent tannins, a firm structure and a real intensity of black fruit - just what I wanted to stand up to the lamb.

La Zagara is a fine restaurant, built upon the enthusiasm and talent of a group of admirable young people. I am already looking forward to my next visit.