Today the palace houses the Mgallery hotel and it was in the hotel’s restaurant I found my relaxing and carefully prepared evening meal, sitting at a table in the large and impressively high cloister. All was calm, particularly when the friendly and helpful maitre d’ Pasquale turned down the canned music. The chairs were comfortable, the tablecloths were grey, the glassware was good (Bormeo) and the waiters and waitresses in black waistcoats moved this way and that to good purpose.

The cuisine is overseen by Chef Paolo Gramaglia, who has a Michelin star at his restaurant in Pompeii, and the chef who mans the stoves here is Domenico Cascone. They both deserve credit for my meal. I began with lemon-perfumed asparagus with splendid grilled vegetables: a good start, although the accompanying popcorn was perhaps a distraction. Then it was lovely spaghetti, with two sorts of tomatoes - Piennola and Corbarino - and two sorts of cheese - Pecorino and Parmesan. This was exactly the sort of dish you want in Southern Italy - simple, well done and full of robust tastes and textures. My main course was fine beef entrecote, sliced and served with sweet and sour onions and some of the finest chips I have had for many a year. And I concluded with the ‘must have’ pudding in Naples: babà, with custard and sour cherries - a brilliant end to a fine dinner. 

The wine list is short and vintages are not given. I noticed that the well-known nero d’avola from Sicily, Mille e Una Notte, Donnafugata, was 125€, a very attractive price. But I was happy to take Pasquale’s recommendation, a 2021 Aglianico of dense black fruit and well-structured tannins, a fine partner for the beef (Irpinia, Mastroberardino).

If you are looking for an unhurried dining experience with good food, pleasant service and historic surroundings in the heart of Naples, you will not go wrong at the Palazzo Caracciolo.