My picture shows the splendid trio at the heart of this enterprise. Its members are seen in informal mode, for I caught them as they were preparing for the service and I thought their natural jollity should be captured before they donned their work attire and became the discreet professionals known to diners. From left to right are Mirko Chiora (sommelier), Thomas Figliolia (maitre d’) and Federico Sgorbini (resident chef). The menu they serve has been created by the Michelin-starred chef Andrea Ribaldone. I must thank Mirko for coming up with a splendid word to describe those of us for whom youth is but a distant memory: ‘historical’. Henceforth your correspondent will refer to himself as ‘historical’.

Lino is right in the centre of the city and occupies attractive premises on one side of a quiet square. To the left of the entrance is its bistro, for simpler fare. Of course, I dined in the dark and cosseting atmosphere of the restaurant. Here in a comfortable armchair with fine white napery and good Spiegelau glassware before me, I could enjoy glimpses of the brigade at work in the next room. I liked the friendly but correct atmosphere, with my napkin delivered by ‘silver service’ provided by the waitress. Admittedly, I could have done without the canned ‘pop’ music, but it was turned down to a tolerable level at my request.