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Back to reviews in Italy
Even I am not old enough to have heard ‘in the flesh’ the Italian tenor Enrico Caruso. The great man died in 1921, but the flame of his reputation still burns – and nowhere more brightly than in the via San Antonino in Sorrento. At number twelve, there is a shrine to the maestro from Naples which is both gastronomic and historical. It was founded by a restaurateur, Paolo Esposito, and a scholar, Guido D’Onofri. The latter supplied the four hundred Caruso-related artefacts which decorate the rooms, and the former determined that the menu should comprise classic Neapolitan and Campanian dishes.
Today the atmosphere is comfortably old-fashioned. The walls are crowded with pictures of our hero, and his recordings provide the ‘canned’ music – although the epithet seems inappropriate for the magnificent arias which float in the air as the waiters and waitresses in aprons deliver food to the diners. Here meals proceed at a leisurely pace.
The food is straightforward and well done. Tastes are correct and well-balanced, and portions are generous. Set menus are available from 60€ to 120€. My four courses from the carte were 99€. Beef tartare was served on a round black plate, and came with candied lemon, caviar and a whole egg yolk. The pasta which followed was the highlight of my dinner, for this simple spaghetti with tomatoes ‘Caruso style’ was perfectly realised – a forceful reminder that Italian food does not have to be complicated to be thrilling. A fillet of sea bass with crisp skin and spinach was another example of the kitchen’s ability to cook precisely and well. I finished with a good, indulgent yoghurt semi-freddo with passion fruit, liquorice crumble and berries.
Sadly, I did not have the chance to peruse the wine list. From a distance it looked a substantial volume. I am told it contains many ancient gems.
If you love the recordings of Caruso, and find the prospect of a good meal in their presence tempting, my advice when you visit the lovely city of Sorrento is to head to number 12, via San Antonino.
via San Antonino 12, 80067 Sorrento, Italy.
Telephone +39 081 807 3156
Fax +39 081 807 2899
Email: info@ristorantemuseocaruso.com
www.ristorantemuseocaruso.com
