contact: info@bownsbest.com
contact: info@bownsbest.com
The Rome Cavalieri Waldorf Astoria Hotel is in an affluent suburb of Rome, on top of one of the hills. Externally, the building is modern in appearance, although its straight lines are softened by carefully placed vines. Inside, the sense is of great space and of good taste – for the hotel is packed with impressive pieces of art. If you like fine oil paintings and antique furniture (and which civilized person does not?), you will love it here. My own billet was on the 8th floor. Coming out of the lift, I found the doublet in which Rudolf Nureyev danced the part of Romeo – framed upon the wall. In the stairwell was an 18th century Goebelin tapestry.
Room 821 was an ‘Imperial Rome View’. (You will need to check on the hotel website for the rates for specific dates.) This was basically a large rectangle, but its clever decoration – with light wood, marble, blue carpeting, table lamps, numerous spotlights, screens and cornicing – made it seem not only spacious but also elegant and visually interesting. Its air conditioning was efficient, there were two easy chairs and it was equipped with all those little items – like a clothes brush and a shoe horn – which indicate that real care has been taken to ensure the occupants’ comfort. In the white and blue marble bathroom were toiletries by Acqua di Parma, plenty of fine white towels, one wash basin, a bidet, a decent tub and lots more spotlights.
An unusual but useful feature was a very heavy ‘extra door’ near the entrance to the hotel corridor, which could be used to cut out even the slightest penetration of sound from outside. At the other end of the apartment a sliding door of plate glass led to my private balcony, on which cleverly placed mirrors created a feeling of complete openness. The view was spectacular: over the pine trees to the domes and palaces of the city of Rome. I spent many happy moments sitting on this balcony, watching the sun sink over the distant rooftops.
By paying for such an Imperial Room, one has access to the Imperial Club on the 7th floor. This is a wonderful facility. Apart from its comfort and its luxury, this handsome lounge offers complimentary refreshments until early evening each day. I took full advantage of these immaculately prepared offerings, quaffing cocktails in the evenings, Earl Grey tea with scones and jam and cakes in the afternoons and breakfast in the mornings. The Club room has its own balconies, so I could enjoy these lovely comestibles while a panorama of the Eternal City was set out before me.
It was in the Imperial Club that I bumped into an old friend, Umberto Giraudo. Really, I should call him Sir Umberto, for he is a Knight of the Italian Republic. I first met him thirty years ago, when he was a waiter at the Louis XV in Monte Carlo. Now he is the Guest Relations Manager at the Waldorf Astoria in Rome - a position entirely suited to his outgoing and charming personality. It is always a pleasure to meet and converse with him. The photograph shows us, as always, in a happy mood. And it was Umberto who suggested I should dine at the hotel’s ground floor restaurant, L’Uliveto. And I was so glad that he did, because I had a really good meal there.
L’Uliveto’s lighting is bright, the floor is of black and white marble and period oil paintings decorate the walls. (In the summer its outside tables overlooking the swimming pool are popular.) I was shown to my large round table by one of the maîtres, Sandro Spigarelli. He looked after me with delightful attentiveness throughout dinner. The picture shows me with Signor Spigarelli, in front of one of the painted depictions of grand food. Comfortably settled in a supportive armchair - important at my advancing age - I surveyed the good white crockery and sparkling Riedel glasses and sampled the excellent focaccia and olive oil brought to me by my waiter for the evening, the helpful Alessio.
The food of Chef Fabio Bosschero is Italian, straightforward and of high quality. Top quality ingredients are handled with intelligence and skill. The results are deeply satisfying. I began with pasta - soft and yielding, in form rather like a square spaghetti - with a simple butter sauce and covered with shavings of black truffle. Deliciously simple and simply delicious. Then it was a tournedos of the finest Fassona beef fillet, with porcini mushrooms, rosemary potatoes and a Piedmontese (red wine) sauce. Splendid. I finished in fine style with the kitchen’s own version of a favourite indulgence, Tiramisù. (You should allow 80€ - 100€ for three such courses.)
The wine list has a hundred offerings. Most are Italian, and run in price from 35€ for a chardonnay from the Trentino to 500€ for the 2013 vintage of Solaia. Other super-Tuscans include 2016 Sassicaia (450€), 2018 Tignanello (230€) and 2014 Ornellaia (360€). 2020 Planeta chardonnay is 65€ and Krug Grande Cuvée champagne is 460€. I was delighted with Signor Spigarelli’s suggestion - the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino from Castello Banfi, which benefited from its decanting and opened up into an elegant, fruit-laden, well-balanced example.
I am always impressed by the Rome Cavalieri Waldorf Astoria Hotel, and I was delighted to find that its ‘other’ restaurant - the famous La Pergola is on the top floor (see separate article) - lives up to the establishment’s high standards. This was a happy visit.
Via Alberto Cadiolo 101, Rome 00136, Italy.
Telephone +39 06 35091
Fax +39 06 3509 2241
Email: romecavalieri.reservations@waldorfastoria.com
Check on hotel website for room prices for specific dates
Ask about special offers
RISTORANTE L’ULIVETO
address: as hotel
Telephone +39 06 3509 2145
Email: ROMHI.FB@waldorfastoria.com
open for breakfast, lunch and dinner every day