Bown's Best - Westin St Francis Hotel & Restaruant Michael Mina, San Francisco, California, USA

CALIFORNIA

SAN FRANCISCO

WESTIN ST FRANCIS HOTEL & RESTAURANT MICHAEL MINA

Westin St Francis Hotel, San Francisco One of America’s best new restaurants and my most exciting ascent ever to a bedroom: the Restaurant Michael Mina and the Westin St Francis Hotel in San Francisco now offer a most attractive partnership. Great hotels should offer great food. Too often, they do not. But now, in the middle of my favourite city, the century-old grande dame of Union Square is home to a dining room of the very highest quality. I could not be more pleased.

Good fortune has not always smiled on the St Francis. Two years after its opening, it was shaken by the famous earthquake of 1906. It came through upright. But then the fire, which broke out after the tremors, completely destroyed its lavish interiors. It was restored, and it has just been restored again (to the tune of $185 million). Here, to the vast halls of marble, gilt and crystal, have come kings, presidents (indeed, every US President since it opened), queens - like Elizabeth II, in 1983 – and untitled (but not unappreciative) folk, like me.

Previously, I have stayed in the front, 1904 part of the building. This time I was billeted in the 1970s tower block at the rear. And hence the thrills… I went into the glass-walled lift and pressed the button for the 29th floor. Over the years I had noticed, in a vague and uncomprehending way, that the lifts were gliding up and down on the outside of the walls. The implications of this arrangement had simply not penetrated my dull mind. Now, suddenly, they did. As we rose by the back of the older structure, nothing seemed untoward. Then, all at once, I was out into open space, propelled as if by rockets, zooming towards the clouds. I gripped the handrail and prepared to faint.

Westin St Francis Hotel, San Francisco I did not, of course. In fact, by the time I reached the 29th floor, I was so exhilarated that I wanted to return earthwards and try the ascent again. But my room was ready, so I padded along the wide corridor to number 2984. And there, from its bay window, was the view I had just left behind in the lift: a vast panorama – over the city to the Bay and across the waters to the distant bank and on to the horizon. This lovely picture was equally captivating at night, when a million fairy lights twinkled in the blackness. $557 a night for two seemed a very reasonable price to pay for the privilege of being able to enjoy this scene.

But there was much more to this (appropriately named) Grand View Room. Its beds were very large and very comfortable. Its space was ample, easily accommodating a proper writing table, as well as upright and easy chairs. Its colour scheme was restful – the whites, greys and blacks enlivened by the dark red of the lacquered television cabinet. In the hallway was not only a capacious wardrobe, with a private safe, but also a handy coffee-making machine. And equally handy, in the grey marble bathroom, was the retractable clothes line – the perfect complement to the iron and ironing board, stowed away next to the safe. Less useful, but rather prettier, was the picture on the bathroom wall of a stone mermaid having a doze.

I have already referred to the grandeur of the public spaces at the St Francis. You will know what they are like, if you recall those old Hollywood films – in which heroes and heroines meet in vast hotel lobbies, surrounded by legions of extras rushing this way and that. Through such exciting business, I made my way each morning for breakfast (about $22) in the Oak Room. I can thoroughly recommend this start to the day. Large, panelled rooms with heavy metal chandeliers are apt to be described as ‘baronial’. Certainly, this chamber made me feel thoroughly lordly, as I tucked into fresh grapefruit juice, good bacon and sausages from the buffet, and a dish of quite excellent pineapple. A special mention must go the coffee pot, which kept its contents hot and was large enough to avoid the necessity of a replacement. Such details speak of an hotel which is truly concerned about the comfort and convenience of its guests. The Westin St Francis is precisely that.

And that is why it now houses a wonderful new restaurant. For few comforts and few conveniences can match those which attend the consumption of food of superlative quality.

Restaurant Michael Mina, San Francisco The Restaurant Michael Mina opened in July, 2004. It occupies one of the most impressive spaces of the St Francis – a huge Classical chamber, reached by a flight of steps to the left of the hotel’s main entrance hall. Fluted Ionic columns provide massive support for the ceiling, which is now painted grey. This theatrical setting is further enhanced by giant mirrors, soft lighting, blue armchairs and white tablecloths. The designer, Barbara Barry, has done a first class job. My fellow diners (of whom there were lots) seemed entirely relaxed and happy. Indeed, my one caveat about this establishment is that the combined sound from so many animated conversations can rise to quite a high level.

But do not let that put you off, otherwise you will miss some brilliant cooking. Mr Mina was born in Egypt and raised in Washington. He is clearly a chef of prodigious talent, and he is also a remarkable restaurateur. I salute him in particular for his staff. I encountered several (like the impressive Assistant General Manager, Anibal Macias), and every one was full of knowledge of and enthusiasm for the whole enterprise. And, indeed, they should be, for this restaurant – to judge from the evidence of my meal – is set to be one of those places to which every serious gourmet longs to pay a visit.

The Mina Maxim is to take one ingredient per course and to present it with three different accompaniments. Simple enough, and, of course, everything depends upon how it is executed. I can report that the execution is stunningly good. A trio of seasonal salads sounded straightforward: (1) mixed greens, oven roasted tomato and Reggiano, (2) hearts of Romaine, greek olives and feta, and (3) watercress, Bosc pear and Roquefort. And so it was, but it was also beautifully presented (on Royal Doulton china, designed by Mr Mina himself), and packed with first rate combinations of tastes and textures. The following dish of roasted foie gras (with (1) black mission fig and pink peppercorn, (2) pineapple and ginger and (3) grape and star anise) somehow managed to be even better. The skill and precision in the kitchen needed to send out this dish was really quite breathtaking. Indeed, it alone should knock out of court the State of California’s proposed ban on foie gras from 2012. How can such perfection be made illegal?

My meat course maintained the stratospheric standards. Kobe beef (from a farm in Idaho) came with (1) truffle fries and spinach, (2) horseradish mashed potatoes and white asparagus and (3) potato gratin and creamed chanterelles. Every detail of this dish was precise and absolutely correct. A wonder.

Restaurant Michael Mina, San Francisco I was beginning to think that everything was just too perfect. But then came the crèpes Suzette. Here, at last, was an indication that the Mina Maxim is not always appropriate. This version, with orange, lemon and pink grapefruit, simply lacked the luscious, juicy indulgence of the dish which I have enjoyed in the world’s finest French restaurants. So do not have the crèpes Suzette here. But do have the bread and butter pudding. My companion did, so I tried it. It was quite the finest version of bread and butter pudding I have ever tasted. I never thought I would describe bread and butter pudding as magical – but that is what it was. (The 3 course set dinner is $78 and the 8 course tasting menu is $120.)

Sommelier and Wine Director Rajat Parr was born in Calcutta, but it was his uncle in London who introduced him to fine wine. It was an introduction which, clearly, led to great things – particularly a love of Burgundy. Although claret lovers have much over which to drool (like 1945 Cheval Blanc at $2,150, 1959 Latour at $3,600 and 1961 Haut Brion at $3,210) burgundy dominates the list – with, for example, no fewer than 28 Montrachets on offer (the 1986 DRC is $3,550). Aged classics always raise the problem of provenance. But Mr Parr assured me that all had come from known private cellars, not from auction.

I thumbed through page after page of bankruptcy-inducing temptations, but Mr Parr directed me to the helpful ‘Back roads of Burgundy’ sections. Here are to be found good value bottles from lesser-known producers. Both my bottles came from here and both were splendid. My white Mâcon Bussières (Vieilles Vignes, Verget, 2002 - $49) was flinty and minerally, with a hint of melon. And my red Chassagne-Montrachet (Domaine Ramonet, 2001 - $52), from an appellation known for its whites, was tannic, full of red fruit and had an exciting touch of excrement on the nose. This is clearly the place to come to drink lovely burgundy at friendly prices.

To stay at the mighty Westin St Francis Hotel and to eat at the remarkable Michael Mina Restaurant will leave you forever grateful that the two have come together. It is a marriage made in Heaven.

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